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Contents

• Keyboard Gameplay
  • Keyboard Layouts
  • Dual Scratching
  • N-Key Rollover
• Controller Gameplay
  • Basic Advice for Controller Gameplay
  • Playstyles (Hand Positions)
  • Purchasing a Controller
    • Controllers
    • Purchasing Buttons, Switches and Springs
    • EMP Mat for Turntable
    • Turntable Sensitivity and Tightness

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Note

This guide is primarily targeted at 7Keys gameplay. There are three main input modes - Keyboard, Controller and MIDI Keyboard. We currently do not cover MIDI Keyboard gameplay in this guide.

Random Note: A MIDI Keyboard is also used for 24Keys, 48Keys and sometimes 14Keys (DP) gameplay.

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Keyboard Gameplay

BMS can be played on a keyboard, though it can be very different from playing on a controller (because buttons have flexible positions and a scratch is simply pressing a single button instead of having to rotate a turntable).

Playing on a keyboard can also be a good way to try out the game before investing in a controller.

I generally avoid comparing scores between the two input modes.

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Keyboard Layouts

On a keyboard, you can bind the seven keys and turntable however you want. There are however a few commonly used key layouts that you can use as a base.

Note that there are two scratch keys to bind, one for forward scratch and one for reverse scratch. There is no difference between them during gameplay (though they scroll menus in opposite directions). Instead, two scratch keybinds are used so that the player can alternate the keys to play fast scratch patterns. This is called "dual scratching".

Linear / O2jam Layout

The most commonly used layout on keyboard. This layout is symmetric and based off the default layout in O2jam. The space bar is shared between the two thumbs, and the two scratch keys are played by the two pinky fingers. SHIFT is often used for the scratch keys as they are easier for the pinky fingers to hit.

Most players only use one of the two thumbs to handle the space bar (key 4). Most players also primarily only use one of the two scratch keys. The second scratch key is used less frequently, and only to aid in dual scratching.

Thumb Scratch Layout

A variation on the linear layout, where instead of having two thumbs assigned to spacebar, only one thumb is assigned to spacebar, while the other is assigned to a key like Alt as a scratch key.

Using a thumb as the primary scratch key has significant advantages over using the pinky, as the thumb is a stronger and more flexible finger. The pinky of the other hand is used for dual scratching (secondary scratch key).

Default / blurtic Layout

A strange layout that some people use. Unlike most other keyboard layouts, this layout allows for dynamic playstyles (i.e. a finger may be used to hit different keys). It is however very cramped and can be difficult to use for high level play. There are however some players who use this layout for high level play.

P1 (Left) side:

P2 (Right) side:

Video: blurtic

It may be a good idea to remove the keys surrounding the keys being used (especially the ones directly below) as they can get in the way.

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Dual Scratching

In keyboard play, dual scratching refers to using two keys for the scratch lane. Dual scratching is useful and sometimes necessary if the scratches are too fast to play as jacks.

Dual scratching can be seen as similar to how a turntable can be turned in two directions to pull off fast scratches. Typically, players have one scratch key they primarily use, and a second scratch key used to assist in dual scratching. We will refer to these as the primary and secondary scratch keys. For a controller's turntable, it can be rotated in two directions, up or down.

However, the strategies used for dual scratching can be quite different from how one would normally reverse a turntable. On a turntable, you will have to reverse the turntable for every subsequent scratch. When dual scratching on a keyboard, it is easier to mainly use the primary scratch key (e.g. for the 8th scratches), while using the secondary scratch key to fill in scratches in between. We will illustrate this with a few examples.

Notation:

• The scratches will be displayed horizontally. We use | to represent a scratch note.
• Keyboard: P and S refer to the primary and secondary scratch keys.
• Controller: U and D refer to scratching up and down respectively.

Example 1: 8ths

| | | | | | | |

Using a turntable: The direction needs to be reversed for each subsequent scratch note.

U D U D U D U D

Dual scratching on keyboard: 8th notes are easy to jack, so using only the primary scratch key is sufficient.

P P P P P P P P

Example 2: 8ths with 16ths mixed in

| ||| ||| |||||

Using a turntable: The direction needs to be reversed for each subsequent scratch note. This pattern can be quite tricky for this reason.

U DUD UDU DUDUD

Dual scratching on keyboard: The 8th notes are played as usual by the primary scratch key, while the secondary scratch key fills in the scratches in between.

P PSP PSP PSPSP

A similar line of thought can be used for more complex scratch patterns (e.g. 24ths). The primary scratch key plays as much as it can play, while the secondary scratch key fills in what the primary scratch key can't hit.

Like using a turntable, this takes practice and can be a difficult skill to master.

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N-Key Rollover

Many keyboards are labeled as "6-key rollover" (6KRO), i.e. any combination of 6 keys can be detected simultaneously. This is not enough for BMS keyboard play. When selecting a keyboard, make sure that it supports N-key rollover (NKRO), meaning any combination of keys can be pressed simultaneously. Most mechanical keyboards should support NKRO. Some keyboards have an option to switch between 6KRO and NKRO modes, so look out for it.

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Controller Gameplay

Many players play BMS with a IIDX Controller. Such a controller has seven keys and a turntable. This section covers the basics of controller gameplay and where to purchase controllers.

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Basic Advice for Controller Gameplay

1. Lift your arms, do not keep your arms rested on the surface of the controller. (playing "rested" is not an option unlike on keyboard)
2. Use your thumbs, they are helpful for covering more keys as well as hitting keys while scratching.
3. Keep your arms in roughly an L-shape when looked upon from the side. Your forearms should be angled slightly downwards. Adjust the height of your setup to achieve this optimal height or it can lead to strain during play.
4. Keep your wrists straight during play, in both axes of motion (vertical/horizontal). Doing otherwise will lead to strain.

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Playstyles (Hand Positions)

This section covers some of the more common playstyles on a controller. One common difficulty players face is handling all seven keys and the turntable at the same time. While it is possible to hit all seven keys and the turntable simultaneously, more complicated patterns involving these keys may require the player to switch between different styles (unless you are playing a fully static playstyle like wrist scratching).

Notation:

• "P1 side" refers to playing on the left, where the turntable is on the left side. P2 side refers to playing on the right.
• Key 1 is the leftmost key. The keys are numbered 1 to 7 from left to right (even on P2, and yes this is confusing).
• This guide assumes that you are on the P1 side. If you are on the P2 side, mirror the notation and hand positions.

The Japanese names for the playstyles are written in parentheses if they don't use the same name as the western community.

Position of the Non-Scratch Hand

For most of the playstyles, the non-scratch hand (right hand for P1) is in a fixed position.

• Key 4: (Right) Index Finger
• Key 5: (Right) Thumb
• Key 6: (Right) Middle Finger
• Key 7: (Right) Ring Finger or Pinky Finger

The images show the two variants for Key 7 (left: ring on 7, right: pinky on 7). The ring finger is stronger but the position is slightly more uncomfortable. The pinky finger is more flexible but initially weak - it takes time to train the pinky finger to have the speed and strength to match the other fingers.

The playstyles below mainly discuss the position of the scratch (left) hand.

Playstyle: 1048 - Transitional

This is the most common playstyle. It looks awkward to play with at first, but one big advantage of this playstyle is its ability to transition to the 2:5 or TAKA.S playstyles very quickly. Transitioning to other styles is important as one typically cannot reach the turntable while in the 1048 (pictured) position.

• Key 1: (Left) Thumb
• Key 2: (Left) Middle Finger
• Key 3: (Left) Index Finger

To maintain the 1048 position, the left arm typically approaches the keys at a roughly 45 degree angle.

Typically, the playstyle is used in this manner:

• 1048 position when there are no scratches nearby, as this position can handle all seven keys simultaneously but not the turntable.
• TAKA.S position when there are scratches nearby - this playstyle can handle all seven keys and the turntable simultaneously, but is not as effective as the 1048 style for density.
• 2:5 or one-handed when there are heavy scratches.

Playstyle: 1048 - God Pinky (1048式完全固定)

Some people are able to reach the turntable to pinky scratch without breaking out of the 1048 position. This is known as "god pinky" as not everyone can do it. It is easier to do on a controller where the turntable is closer to the keys (CS distance). This is a fully static playstyle and requires no transitions.

While a god pinky is good for hitting individual scratches, it may still be advantageous to transition out of 1048 to tackle fast scratch patterns.

Playstyle: 1048 - Wrist Scratch (手首皿)

As the image shows, some players use their wrist to scratch while maintaining the 1048 position. This is a fully static playstyle and requires no transitions. To wrist scratch, one needs to stand close to the controller and position their arm roughly parallel to the edge of the desk.

Playstyle: 2:5

In this playstyle, the left hand (scratch hand) covers the turntable and keys 1 and 2, while the right hand covers keys 3-5. This is done by moving the right thumb over to key 3.

• Key 1: (Left) Thumb
• Key 2: (Left) Index Finger
• Key 3: (Right) Thumb

This playstyle is useful when there are a lot of scratch notes, but isn't very effective for dense note patterns. This is because the right hand's fingers have to constantly move to cover the five keys (see images).

Note that the names 2:5, 3:5 and TAKA.S may sometimes be used interchangably in the community since players tend to be using a mix of these styles during play.

Playstyle: TAKA.S (べちゃ押し)

This playstyle is very similar to 2:5, but instead the thumb of the scratch hand (left hand) now covers both keys 1 and 3, sharing key 3 with the thumb of the right hand. The side of the thumb is used to hit keys 1 and 3 simultaneously. This can take a bit of practice to get right.

• Key 1: (Left) Thumb
• Key 2: (Left) Index Finger
• Key 3: (Left) Thumb

This playstyle can be utilized to hit all seven keys and the scratch simultaneously. However, it might be better to switch to other playstyles (like 1048/symmetric/dolce/claw) when playing dense note patterns. However, there are some players (e.g. TAKA.S) who play purely in this style.

Playstyle: Symmetric (対称固定)

Some players use this instead of the 1048 position. The symmetric playstyle is one of the more intuitive playstyles to get into, especially when coming from keyboard play.

• Key 1: (Left) Ring Finger
• Key 2: (Left) Middle Finger
• Key 3: (Left) Thumb

Like 1048, you typically can't scratch while in this position, and so have to transition to 2:5/TAKA.S for scratching. One disadvantage of Symmetric however, is that transitioning to 2:5/TAKA.S is slow.

One advantage of Symmetric as compared to 1048 is that 1048 is typically weak to stair patterns like 12321, a weakness that Symmetric does not have.

Playstyle: DOLCE

Another alternative to the 1048 position. Pretty much shares the same advantages and disadvantages as Symmetric as compared to 1048. Despite the name, the IIDX player DOLCE doesn't often use this style.

• Key 1: (Left) Middle Finger
• Key 2: (Left) Index Finger
• Key 3: (Left) Thumb

Playstyle: Claw (quasar式)

Another alternative to the 1048 position. A style that players switching from keyboard play may initially pick up, due to the left hand sharing the same key assignments as keyboard play. Shares the same advantages and disadvantages as Symmetric as compared to 1048.

• Key 1: (Left) Ring Finger
• Key 2: (Left) Middle Finger
• Key 3: (Left) Index Finger

This playstyle is particularly good with 1-3 trills.

Playstyle: Hokuto (北斗)

A very dynamic playstyle which focuses on hitting keys with the index (and middle) fingers as much as possible. Generally strong with timing as the index and middle fingers are the most precise fingers, but can be weak for density and large chords due to the amount of movement needed.

Playstyle: One-Handed (片手)

A playstyle that one might switch to during intense scratch sections. A player may also be forced to play one-handed during long scratch (BSS) notes.

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Purchasing a Controller

Controllers

As buttons can be swapped out easily (aside from the KOC), the main practical concern when picking a controller is the turntable. The PCB may also be a concern, but it can also be swapped out if needed.

Terminology:

• AC Diameter: The diameter of a turntable on a IIDX cabinet (22cm).
• AC Distance: The distance from the turntable to the keys on a IIDX cabinet
• CS Distance: The distance from the turntable to the keys on a KOC controller. Significantly shorter than AC distance.

Typically, the diameter of the turntable does not matter as much as the distance from the turntable to the keys. For example, certain playstyles (e.g. 1048 God Pinky) may be more feasible on "CS Distance" controllers like the FPS.

Controllers with smaller turntables and shorter distances also tend to have a smaller profile. This may be advantageous if you are looking for a controller you can more easily bring around.

Pretty much every controller listed here allows 1P/2P switching. This is done by removing the key panel and rotating it 180 degrees so that the turntable is on the other side. The DJ Dao Real Edition Single/Double are the only controllers where you cannot do this.

The cheapest controllers go for a little less than US$200. This excludes the KOC which can go for far less.

Do note that prices below EXCLUDES shipping. Shipping costs can be pretty high (about $50-$150, give or take, depending on location. Yuan tends to have slightly cheaper shipping than Gamo2).

Typically, your main choices are the DJDao FPS, DJDao PHOENIXWAN, or the YuanCon IIDX. Other controllers are listed for comparison's sake.

Manufacturer: Gamo2 (DJ Dao)

If you live in the United States, DJ Dao has a "US Storehouse" which lets you purchase some of their controllers without the shipping price (the shipping price is included within the price of the controller itself, so you're actually getting the controllers at about half the normal shipping price).

Gamo2 / DJ Dao Store Page

DJDao FPS

• Turntable smaller than AC diameter.
• You can switch between CS and AC distance. CS distance is the default.
• Turntable comes with EMP mat by default.
• Price: about $200.

DJDao FP7

• This controller is no longer being produced. However, as the FP7 is a very popular controller, you might be able to find one second-hand.
• Turntable slightly smaller than AC diameter.
• AC distance turntable.
• Turntable comes with EMP mat by default.
• Price: a little above $200.

DJDao PHOENIXWAN (Product Page) (Review / Features)

• The more expensive "successor" to the FP7.
• AC diameter and AC distance turntable.
• Turntable sensitivity adjustment
• Turntable uses a special "grippy" material instead of an EMP mat.
• Price: a little below $300.

DJDao Real Edition Double (RED)

• A large deck with a double controller meant for double play.
• Price: about $750

Manufacturer: YuanCon

YuanCon Store Page

YuanCon IIDX (Video)

• AC diameter and AC distance turntable. Newer YuanCons feature AC and CS distance switching.
• Turntable does not come with EMP mat by default.
• Difficult to obtain as it is frequently out of stock and restocks are sporadic. Follow Yuan's twitter or join the discord for information on restocks.
• The model is updated relatively often. YuanCons bought today may be quite different from older generation YuanCons.
• Price: about $200 (may change).

Manufacturer: ISTMALL

ISTMALL Store Page

ISTMALL Music Game Controller Plus (Video)

• Turntable much smaller than AC diameter.
• Turntable distance 9s shorter than AC distance.
• Price: A little below $200.

Manufacturer: KONAMI

KONAMI occasionally sells controllers meant to be used for IIDX INFINITAS or Ultimate Mobile. These controllers can also be used to play BMS. However, KONAMI's controllers are usually overpriced and are difficult to get as they are usually sold in limited runs.

KOC (Konami Official Controller) (Image - JKOC) (Image - USKOC)

• A very old controller that used to be sold with the PS2 releases of beatmania IIDX. They are no longer in production, but you can still sometimes find these being sold second-hand.
• These controllers are usually very cheap and can go for $50 or lower (if you can find them).
• Small turntable (not AC diameter of course) and uses CS distance.
• Membrane keys that may require some modding to play semi-decently.
• May require some modding for compatibility with modern systems.

IIDX Entry Model (Video)

• Pretty much the same buttons and turntable as the KOC, but far more expensive.
• Turntable uses AC distance instead of CS distance (needs verification).
• Sold recently in a limited run.

IIDX Premium Model (Image) (Video)

• Turntable smaller than AC diameter, but uses AC distance (needs verification).
• Sold recently in a limited run.
• Sometimes known as the INFINITAS controller

IIDX Professional Model (Image/Video)

• AC diameter, AC distance turntable (needs verification).
• Sold recently in a limited run.

Purchasing Buttons, Switches and Springs

There are three important components in a button (excluding the LEDs)

• Buttons: the plastic buttons which you hit with your fingers during play.
• Switches: the microswitches attached below the buttons.
• Springs: the springs placed in the shaft between the button and the switch.

Buttons and Springs typically only need to be bought once. Switches can fail after some time, so it may be advisable to purchase spares.

My personal advice is to get Samduck buttons, spare gersung switches and springs all from ISTMALL, as they are cheap and high quality.

Where to buy Buttons:

Options:

• Chinese buttons: comes by default in Dao or Yuan controllers. Generally poorer quality than Samducks or Sanwa buttons in terms of feel and jamming likelihood.
• Samduck (SAMDUCKSA) buttons: Pretty much as good as SANWA buttons, but far cheaper (about $3 per button). Has a slightly shorter throw than SANWA buttons.
  • Purchase from ISTMALL. Comes with 65g gersung switch and 20g spring.
• SANWA buttons: the buttons used in IIDX arcade machines. About $10+ per button.
  • Purchase from Rakuten

Check out this page on the Rhythm Cons Wiki for more information on where to buy buttons.

Note that buttons typically come with a switch and spring when purchased.

Where to buy Switches:

Typically, people use either Omron or Gersung microswitches. The weight of a switch is how much force is required to press it down. Check typical switch/spring setups for recommendations on switch weights.

• Omron switches are more expensive (about $3 each), but have more choices for weights (25g, 50g, 100g).
• Gersung switches are cheaper ($1 each) but only one weight is available (65g).

Gersung switches can be purchased from ISTMALL. Omron switches can be purchased from multiple places. There is a list in the Rhythm Cons Wiki.

Where to buy Springs:

You can buy either ISTMALL springs or SANWA springs. I think there is little difference between the springs (aside from the available weights). Check typical switch/spring setups for recommendations on spring weights. As springs are cheap, it may be a good idea to buy a set of differently-weighted springs to experiment with other spring weights to see what setup is good for you.

Places to buy springs: https://rhythm-cons.wiki/w/Springs

Typical Switch/Spring Setups

Note: 50g omron switches may be replaced with the approximately 65g gersung switches.

• Light: 50/20, i.e. 50g switch and 20g spring
• Medium: 50/60, i.e. 50g switch and 60g spring
• Heavy: 100/60, i.e. 100g switch and 60g spring

(remark: the switch/spring notation is reversed in Japan)

Advantage of lighter setups:

• Allows you to hit buttons faster as it requires less energy.
• Lighter setups work well if you primarily hit keys using finger movements.

Advantage of heavier setups:

• One of the biggest difficulties in BMS is not hitting keys you aren't supposed to (hitting extra keys leads to "bad chains" which can be extremely costly). Heavier setups makes this easier to do as you won't be making accidental hits by merely brushing a finger over a key.
• Heavy setups work well if you also often use arm motions to hit keys.
  • For example, on a lighter setup, you might have to lift unused fingers higher than usual to avoid them brushing against additional keys when bringing your arm down to hit a chord.

EMP Mat for Turntable

An EMP mat is the rubbery surface stuck onto the turntable to increase grip. This can be useful if you have trouble gripping the surface of a plastic turntable (especially if you have sweaty hands).

Many controllers either come with an EMP mat or an option to include an EMP mat. The PHOENIXWAN controller has a turntable with a special grippy material that acts as a substitute for an EMP mat.

If a plastic turntable does not work for you or if your current EMP mat is starting to wear out, new EMP mats can be purchased from FlipFlopShop.

Alternatively, a more ugly and messy solution is to tape mod your controller.

Turntable Sensitivity and Tightness

Sensitivity

Turntable sensitivity refers to how much you have to turn the turntable for it to register as a scratch.

Usually, a turntable's sensitivity is fixed by the PCB in the controller, and so can't be adjusted easily (unless you are using an arcin board).

If your turntable is too sensitive:

• Accidental scratches may occur when you lightly brush your finger over the turntable.
• The turntable may "flicker", meaning the scratch may misfire when reversing or stopping the turntable. This can be especially problematic on scratch chains (multiple fast scratches in a row).

If your turntable is not sensitive enough:

• A single scratch would pull your hand away from the keys for too long.

Tightness

Turntable tightness refers to how easy it is to physically turn the turntable, and how far/long the turntable continues to spin after releasing it.

The tightness of a turntable can usually be adjusted by tightening or loosening the four screws on the top of the turntable. The friction in the turntable comes from the screws pulling on the turntable, causing the underside of the turntable to press against the felt surface below it. Making adjustments to the felt surface below the turntable can also be a way to adjust its tightness.

If your turntable is too tight:

• Your finger may slip when attempting to scratch or reverse the turntable, missing the scratch.
• Long scratch notes (where you have to constantly rotate the turntable) can be more tricky to play as there is less room for error.

If your turntable is too loose:

• The longer the turntable continues to spin after release, the longer you have to remember the last direction you scratched in, as your next scratch would have to be in the opposite direction of that last scratch (while a turntable that stops sooner might have allowed you to scratch in the same direction multiple times in a row).