Calibration tips - tkocou/V400-Files GitHub Wiki

A confirmation about should the calibrations be with a room temperature print bed or with a heated print bed:

Although I was careful to do the Z Offset, Delta calibration and bed mesh calibrations at room temperature, my first layer was always too thin. Then I came across information which stated that these calibrations should be done with the print bed at the normal temperature which you would be printing at. <https://github.com/Eyreon/FLsun-V400>. Up to you if you want to try this. UPDATE: The build plate can become flatter when raised to the printing temperature. Height_Map-20C_vs_60C.png

If you choose to do the calibrations with a heated bed, be very careful not to hurt yourself.

So I re-calibrated the above mentioned calibrations with a heated bed.The first layer came out good, not thin like before. Probably the thermal expansion of the print bed caused the printing surface to rise thereby causing a thin first layer.

Some additional things to consider:

If you use Cura as your slicer, edit the printer setting - Preferences -> Printers -> Machine Settings -> Start G-code. If the following MACRO is missing BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default, add it between the G28 and G1 F3000 Z1 lines.

Close the extra Cura windows.

Up to you if you want to try these following suggestions.

Also, edit the printer.cfg file and change the following [Probe] settings:

Speed - from the default of 10 to 5 << a slower probing speed helps with accuracy

Samples - From the default of 3 to 5 << More samples helps average out slight differences

In the [bed mesh] settings:

mesh_pps - leave at the default of 4,4 << number of interpolated points between measured points

round_probe_count - from the default of 9 to 15 << again, more samples helps to average out the height measurements

Then click Save and Restart.

Concerning the rotational_distance calibration https://github.com/phnxdrgn536/FLSun-v400/wiki/E-Steps

Instead of sending the listed G1 E100 F100 command, use G90 G1 E100 F100 instead. Adding the G90 insures that the extruder is using the absolute movement instead of the relative movement. The number of E-Steps with relative movement can vary. The absolute movement guarantees the same number of steps per rotation.

Second item to be aware of:

UPDATE: More information has come to light. While the temperature of the filament has some influence on the rotational_distance calibration, the more important detail is the filament itself. If the filament is not fresh, you should dry the filament before using it for this calibration. Fresh filament would be preferable. A single colored or clear filament would be best. Fancy filaments are not consistent enough for best accuracy.

You may have to run this calibration a second or third time to "dial in" the correct rotational_distance number. Unload and Load new filament if necessary.

Temperature menu:

The default temperature screen has both hot-end and build plate selected. You can select / deselect either item by tapping the appropriate icon. Thus you can deselect the build plate and only heat up the hot-end (or the other way around - build plate and not the hot-end).

Multiple printer profiles for ORCA slicer

The V400:

In the Settings -> Calibration menu -> Bed mesh calibration, add a new profile for an intended bed temperature (like 80C for PetG). Save it. Klipper will reload. Go to the Temperature Setting, deselect the extruder - only the bed should be selected. Tap PetG button to heat the bed to 80C. Wait until the bed has stablized its temperature. Go to the bed mesh calibration and select the new 80C profile. Do the bed mesh calibration and don't forget to connect & attach the sensor. Save the calibration when it is finished.

Orca:

Edit the printer profile. Add or adjust the MACRO BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=80C between the G28 and G1 F3000 Z1 lines. Save the printer profile by adding -80C to the file name. Example: FLsun V400 would become FLsun V400-80C.

Whenever you print with PetG filament, select that printer profile to match the PetG filament profile. Feel free to create printer profiles with bed temperature profiles for PLA and TPU (and any other type of filament)