Ender 3 V3 SE - pellcorp/printers GitHub Wiki

I originally used this guide to get my Ender 3 V3 SE klippered with a rpi 3+ I have. https://schnoog.eu/hobbies/3dprinting/ender-3-v3-se-klippered

Vanilla Klipper

I decided as the auto offset needed manual tweaking anyway, I wanted to go vanilla klipper, so that is what I am running now.

Configuration

All the config files are located here: https://github.com/pellcorp/printers/tree/master/ender3v3se/klipper

Filament Runout Sensor

I purchased the official kit from creality, and started off following this guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ZpSC0e8nKw&t=435s

However this youtube video does not correctly route the cable in the guide underneath the top bar, so I did that myself and followed the youtube guide for routing it into the electronics bay.

I had to add the following config to printer.cfg after setting this up:

[filament_switch_sensor FilamentSensor]
switch_pin: !PC15
pause_on_runout: True
pause_delay: 3.0
runout_gcode: PAUSE

Power Blocker

Turns out the USB connection between the rpi and the main board without power blocker causes the rpi to heat up, adding a power blocker removed 5c of temp from the rpi

https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B094FYL9QT

Fan Shroud

I like a simplistic fan shroud, so I used this one:

https://www.printables.com/model/637754-ender-3-v3-se-lightweight-fan-shroud/comments

K1 Hotend Upgrade

I am planning to replace the simplistic fan shroud (which has pretty poor cooling at speeds)

I am now using this https://www.printables.com/model/910918-ender3-v3-seke-dual-4010-blower-shroud-for-k1-hote

30t Timing Pulley

I just finished swapping the Y stepper out for a spare stepper motor I had + 30t timing pulley, I actually reduced the stepper_y max position by a few mm as I was getting some weird sounds at the end of y, possibly binding, not sure, anyway I reduced my y by 5mm iirc and now everything is working very well. I also spent a lot of time making sure the new pulley aligned the belt with the one on the back, and also dialing in the tension of the belt, too tight and the bed would lock up or make horrible sounds while doing a WARMUP macro, better a little loose than a little too tight! Too loose and it will skip layers, too tight it will skip layers, got to find goldilocks tightness :-)

RPI Mount

I created a mount for my favourite rpi case

https://www.printables.com/model/807446-ender-3-v3-se-mount-for-malolos-raspberry-pi-3-cas

ADXL Mount

I use a kusba on my Ender 3 V1, so I created a mount for that for my V3 SE as well

https://www.printables.com/model/799562-ender-3-v3-se-kusba-accelerometer-mount

I will have to replace this with something like https://www.printables.com/model/914383-btt-adxllis2dw-mount-ender3-v3-seke

Remove the screen

I originally upgraded the screen to a CYD screen, but I had all sorts of issues with getting WIFI to be reliable, that I decided I don't need a screen, I use the printer right next to my desktop computer anyway so its rather pointless.

Buck Converter to power the Rpi

I installed a buck converter and connected it to 24v output on the power supply, and power both the rpi, I have mounted the buck in a plastic case inside the base of the printer and routed the cable outside of the printer.

Y Axis Linear Rails

https://www.printables.com/model/694446-ender-3-v3-se-ke-d3d-y-rails

Alternative part for rear rail mount: https://www.printables.com/model/721192

More details and bill of materials: https://github.com/DerrickDarrell/Creality-Ender-3-V3-SE-KE/tree/main/SE%2BKE%20Y%20Rails%20Conversion

Changes to BOM

I did not have the right bolts in a couple of cases, but I think my replacements will be fine

  • Swapped M3x8mm SHCS bolts for M3x10mm BHCS + 2mm nut
  • Swapped M3x14mm bolts for M3x16mm with some washers

Levelling model

For dialing in z-offset and checking if the levelling is working, these models are helpful