3D Printing - nolanhergert/notes GitHub Wiki

Designing Parts

Just had a part with 1.3mm thick walls break on me when I stepped on it. I could make it thicker still, but it probably still won't hold up to the step test. Maybe it's better to just make thin parts that are cheap and will break if put in rare situation (and save the parent's foot too!)?

Only problem is it doesn't look that strong. But I think that's ok. Uses a lot less material too.

Fast printing

Bigger nozzle width, CHT knockoff hotend, longer volcano hotend with M6 nuts for extra thermal mass, larger layer height, insulation around it (silicone sock?) to protect from cooling fan, etc. Look at sorta recent CNC kitchen videos.

However, not really limited by print speed for prototyping my designs right now. We'll see about the future though.

Makerbot with Prusaslicer

Need to set up a profile. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wz2Soog4HkQ

Then convert gcode to x3g, or run with ReplicatorG ... for sailish? https://www.instructables.com/Gcode-to-X3g/. Since I can't run from sd card currently...

Notes from Makerbot 3D Printer Sailfish

Only benefit for using Sailfish newer version is better sd card support.

Command to download existing firmware and settings: https://www.hubs.com/talk/t/should-i-update-my-firmware/9680/7

Can use avrdude from sailfish ReplicatorG download. Connect to it first in the GUI, then you can run the below command to download firmware. avrdude -p m1280 -P COM5 -c stk500v1 -b 57600 -U flash:r:makerbot_flash.hex:i avrdude -p m1280 -P COM5 -c stk500v1 -b 57600 -U eeprom:r:makerbot_eeprom.hex:i

Files are in uploads. Some other output

[20:54:20] Motherboard firmware v7.6 (Lower) [20:54:20] Bot StepsPerMM Axis 3: 96.275202 machine xml has: 96.275201, updating bot [20:54:20] Bot StepsPerMM Axis 4: 96.275202 machine xml has: 1.0, updating bot [20:54:20] Bot Length Axis 0: -1 machine xml has: 285, updating bot [20:54:20] Bot Length Axis 1: -1 machine xml has: 152, updating bot [20:54:20] Bot Length Axis 2: -1 machine xml has: 155, updating bot [20:54:20] Bot Length Axis 3: -1 machine xml has: 100000, updating bot [20:54:20] Bot Length Axis 4: -1 machine xml has: 0, updating bot [20:54:20] Bot Maximum Feed Rate Axis 0: -1.0 machine xml has: 18000.0, updating bot [20:54:20] Bot Maximum Feed Rate Axis 1: -1.0 machine xml has: 18000.0, updating bot [20:54:20] Bot Maximum Feed Rate Axis 2: -1.0 machine xml has: 1170.0, updating bot [20:54:21] Bot Maximum Feed Rate Axis 3: -1.0 machine xml has: 1600.0, updating bot [20:54:21] Bot Maximum Feed Rate Axis 4: -1.0 machine xml has: 0.0, updating bot [20:54:21] Reset Board [20:54:23] Read timed out.

Photogrammetry

Higher depth resolution

Make sure that the images match each other (exposure, color balance, etc all are locked) so the albedo matches. They recommend RAW, but that seems overkill.

https://www.reddit.com/r/photogrammetry/comments/gmbi6b/meshroom_how_to_achieve_higher_depth_resolution/

Injection Molding

Just kinda cool for now. Don't have an immediate use for it unless I can get it to pot the electronics with external wires. "Overmolding" might be the keyword, and it just might work! Need to use up the clear art epoxy resin I already have for now.

Can finally use those old milk jugs for something also useful!

Don't need a full $10K mold, can make it with 3d print resin on the inside enclosed by a aluminum holder. Or just cut out of aluminum.

Notes on sprues, alignment pins, etc. http://www.seattlerobotics.org/encoder/199703/mold_art/molds.htm

Really fast workflow: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXWZC6NcaGg&feature=youtu.be

Vice / Pressure

Toggle clamp is one way.

C clamps look annoying.

Vice looks kind of ok too. https://www.injectionmolder.net/other_models.html

Mixing

Can be done by a mixing blade (knife?) that you mix with, then pull out through a slot to remove the excess plastic. https://www.injectionmolder.net/howitworks_mixmolder.html

Auger doesn't necessarily guarantee mixing. The Australian Precious Plastics injection machine (which has a proper squeezing injection auger) still has mixing issues. https://youtu.be/FWhIVFUPcBI

Need vent holes and screwdriver slots on side perhaps for easier opening?

Machines

Most are small shot size. However, can shoot inner and then outer to get around that. (need two molds though)

Great notes on realistic expectations and what machines to look for. https://www.manninginnovations.com/faq

Beagle

$200 with not much assembly either!

Model 150A

Shot size of 1 cubic inch. $1500. https://www.techkits.com/products/model-150a/

Galomb B-100

Also shot size of 1 cubic inch. $4.5k. https://www.injectionmolder.net/order_items.html

Holipress

https://holimaker.fr/holipress/, French.

Bonding / Glues

Would like to just use a heated tip or the extruder, but probably won't look that great.

Can make a 3d printed mount for the soldering station on top of it (or just hot glue it down!)

Solvent Bond

Buy paint stripper that contains methylene chloride (dichloromethane). It will solvent weld both PLA and PETG.

  • I already have Weld-On 4, whose MSDS contains the above. And will do acrylic too.

FDM / FFF

Need a big printer actually for printing the whole mohawk.

Bridging large spans is no problem with a fan! Crazy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cdxx186jOLA&feature=youtu.be

Ask Ledgerwood:

  • This thing is yuge. 800mm depth and 700mm height I think. Is there space in his room?
Syntax $1000 Version $5000 Version
Link CR-10 S5 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cdxx186jOLA&feature=youtu.be)
Features Power loss, filament runout, heated bed
Additional Upgradable Features Silent-er motor drivers? Z-axis stabilizer
Additional Unique Features CoreXY design (slightly more stable?)
Disadvantages Only heats up inner 300X300, but can use hot air gun

Keywords:

  • CoreXY, linear rails
  • Does it heat up the whole bed, or just part of it?

Theory

Printer

Creality CR-10 S5

Recommended upgrades (read comments too) from Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/b68x2d/so_im_thinking_about_getting_a_cr10_s5/

Salmon skin smoothers, use 8 diodes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78fonMoXRuA

  • Also make sure the pin-outs match! (might need to reverse some of the leads)

Accessory stabilization rods for less ringing on taller prints.

Buy from eBay so you can return if necessary? Not sure...

Try printing flexible filament first, hmm,

Creality Ender 3

Seems great. Also cheap, $179. Barely any parts needed to upgrade to direct drive, so cheap. Although might want to look into the other kits too. https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-pro-direct-drive/

SV01

Has direct drive built in. Also is cheap. https://sovol3d.com/products/sv01-direct-drive-printer

Slicers

PrusaSlicer and CHEP are both slicers. What is handy is ironing and fuzzy skin.

Materials

PLA

Brittle, will break.

PETG

Bends but doesn't break. Really tough. Should be able to print it on the standard printers too!

TPU

Readily absorbs moisture. They recommend warming it in the oven.

Need a direct drive extruder and not bowden (long tube with pusher on the side of the chassis, used on cheaper 3d printers).

  • Allows you to not have PTFE tube against hotend
  • Allows printing flexible filament easier

CNC Software

Fusion 360

Using it for now.

Nesting / arrange in design space: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFPKiWiQ7lc

Only 2D contour allows you to leave tabs.

CNC machine

3018

Excellent fairly cheap fixes for z-axis deflection. http://www.richardsenior.net/cnc3018pro/, https://web.archive.org/web/20210315234142/http://www.richardsenior.net/cnc3018pro/

  • Adds a sheet on the back

https://www.instructables.com/Upgrade-Your-CNC/

  • Add fan blades onto collet? Clever!
  • Do I need 300W or 500W spindle? Needs 48V power supply and speed controller. Seems only useful for aluminum. At that point, I think I'm ok shipping it out, right?

Buster beagle 300W spindle mount adapter: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3717710

Also updates the linear bearings inside it to take the rocking out of the part

Great writeup on how Chinese CNC machines fail: https://www.cnc-step.com/infos/diy-hobby-cnc-router-kit/

This guy doesn't like his small machine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaGFQ7M04Wo&list=LL&index=18

Genmitsu 3018 Prover

Thinking of going with this one. Upgrade to 20K rpm motor? https://www.sainsmart.com/products/genmitsu-gs-775m-20000rpm-775-cnc-spindle-motor-noise-suppression-compatible-with-3018-series. Probably not higher power though.

Unfortunately while you CAN machine aluminum with these, they’re certainly not designed to do so. Just take your finger and press it against a bit while it’s in the spindle and you’ll see what I mean. The small amount of deflection is pretty easy to overcome in wood, but since metal has no “give” it’s far more difficult.

You generally have to take extremely fine cuts (think .01mm), and really slow speeds. This is fine if it’s just for a hobby something that time isn’t an issue, but if you’re trying to manufacture multiples of something it’ll be a trial of patience.

Now some things that can be done are an all metal spindle holder, upgrading to a router, linear rails on the X axis, and metal sides. Individually none of these are extremely expensive, but if you do them all your likely to find yourself in the neighborhood of a much larger machine price wise, with a machine that still only does an “ok” job of machining metal.

Automated Pick and Place Machine

Enthralled with them right now. Writing down some notes...

SMT Soldering

  • Hackaday poster said a toaster oven is good enough for temperature control. But...maybe not. There are a number of toaster oven controller kits at ~$100. Controleo 3 looks good.
    • Want temperature below solder temperature for flux to evaporate without bubbles. Then maintain soldering temperature precisely.
  • People recommended a laser cut sheet and squeegee instead of gooping it out with a syringe. Interesting.