New Design - nolanhergert/EasyLED GitHub Wiki

EEVBlog Feedback

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/oshw/advice-on-a-portable-outdoor-led-strip-controller/

Garrett

Cables with less tension. More pliable wire.

Not very bright in the daytime. Needs to be bright enough in the daytime to replace a red blinky, which is visible in the daytime from behind, at least.

Changing each pin as a block felt clunky. He'd prefer it to be all open at once. But maybe some don't want everything at once. Accordion view!

Weight wasn't an issue. 2X18650.

If there was a way to not strap it through, that'd be preferable for MIPS and motorcycle helmets, etc.

What happens if you plug either the led strip or the controller into usb micro powre supply? USB C? Computer?

Allow people to use their own patterns, but probably more important is customization like WLED.

Drop resistance with more than just helmet weight.

Modular design. If an LED strip goes out, allow easy procurement and replacement.

Obsolesence statement on a device. They will support it until XX date.

Goals

  • Provide an off the shelf way for non-technical users to configure a shock and water resistant device for several different uses with minimal fuss.
  • Allow for cheap automated assembly if possible. Probably want to avoid through hole.
  • Modular:
    • Power supply so anything can be used. USB Power supply, phone power bank, 12V from batteries, etc.
      • Also allows you to replace the battery when it inevitably dies!
    • LED strips, they'll get broken / wear out. Replace it easily.
  • Open source / cloneable / modifiable. Allow people to make their own modules and mass manufacture it. That's how you get your baby out there and outlasting you!

Reach / Nice to Have

Requirements

  • End-customer has to be able to pick and choose LED strips / devices and connect them themselves (no soldering) with minimal fuss. Don't want to customize at the factory.
  • Water resistance needs to be injection molded, probably a case. Injection molding potting can work, but only a case is needed for rain and splash resistance.
    • Although 3D printing should work too, at least for prototyping
    • Punchouts for unused connectors? KISS. Easier to cut a hole and push a compliant seal into it. Need seal to be flush but somewhat easily removable...Ahh, hollow so it can deform and be grabbed with needle nose?
    • Punchouts for individually populated connectors?
  • Drop resistant from 6 feet with the weight of the helmet on it.
  • Allow for >2 voltages/power supplies, probably with a cuttable trace in the middle of the board? Left side is one power supply, right side is another?

Feedback

  • Ask in EEVBlog forum or Hackaday?

Observations

  • Dupont wires (multicolored) are good for prototyping, but kind of look like a prototype instead of USB cable black with double insulation.

Connectors

See Connector

PCB

Probably am going to do a custom PCB? Why?

  • Most people have no need for serial
  • Level shifters instead of 1A diode (fuse). However, battery or USB micro cable probably won't power more than that?
    • Use the same ones as that other guy...
  • More room for audio jack connectors. Also they can be soldered on directly, don't need to do wire soldering.
  • Don't have to do any through hole soldering / trimming!
  • JLCPCB assembly costs are quite cheap. $10 starting, then $.00015 a joint. So one penny for 100 joints?!
  • One sided board with very little assembly.

Wemos D1 Mini has an ADC converter for 1.1V to 3.3V. Probably want that

ESP-12F has some "don't connect" pins on bottom of board. ESP-12S removes them for a few cents more. $1.58 per module using LCSC vs $1.09 with AliExpress. For cheap automated assembly, that's a pretty small overhead.

Pros

  • Pretty straightforward to use bare ESP8266 chip.

Costs

Part LCSC AliExpress
ESP8266 Module $1.50 $1.00?
2.5mm Audio Jack $.20

Open Questions

Several of them. Need to answer before order.

  • How to program the module in manufacturing? (easy question, just need details). Only need OTA programming for most customers in reality, I think.
  • Do I want the battery included or separate? Really want it separate...
    • Nice thing about separate is .... and it's gone.
  • Removable case that is waterproof and clips or worst case glues shut.
    • Allows for after-the-fact modifications/additions via drilling, when you provide PTH spots
  • If doing potting, then how to keep it from going into usb micro holes on top? Need to put a usb cable in there or something...
  • DIY reflow?
    • Need to ensure that plate gets hot enough to reflow lead free solder.
    • Might want to add a piece of aluminum underneath to even out hot spots.

Todos

  • What voltage regulator chip to do? Level shifter, ADC adjuster? (probably don't need that)
  • Level Shifter: Don't need bi-directional level shifting and no current carrying, making it much simpler.
    • DON'T NEED LEVEL SHIFTERS FOR SMALL NUMBERS OF WS2812?! Cool, try it out with good 5V with no diode drop.
    • Just need buffers / mosfet?
    • Dude on Arduino says:

Well, I don't know that "everyone" agrees in respect of the 74HCT245. If it is the most readily (and cheaply) available, so be it but the 74HCT14 is simpler and has exactly the same effect. And the will most likely do just as well and is the most readily available of all. * But don't like this schmitt trigger solution since it inverts the output, and apparently you can't flip them in software?!

  • For large orders, panelize it to stay under 50 unit limit.
  • Do audio connectors short while powered on and cause problems?

Power

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