#2 Build - madBeavis/PimpMyAtv GitHub Wiki

WIP 2021-02-02

Foreward

My scanning desires outgrew the area provided by my prior build that utilized x96 mini atvs. I had been procuring tx9s s912 atv when the first madrom came out for them and liked their performance. During early 2020, it became difficult to obtain x96 minis and f1 atvs for a reasonable price. The only logical conclusion was to do the next build with consisting of only tx9s atvs.

Parts - The case

I wanted to be able to transport the build to work, so another computer case made sense. The Rosewill Thor v2 was a decent case, but it encloses everything, so no way to display anything. I shopped around, found a used Corsair 680x case used on ebay for $150 shipped (minus the rgb garbage) and made an offer for $135 and the gentleman accepted it.

Parts - Relays

Living with atvs not on relays is no way to live. Before I started this build I had 23 tx9s, some cooled and some not. I had one that refused to run for more than an hour and a few other problem children that might run for a day. I got tired of getting up to manually power cycle them. My prior build only requires manual intervention when the google account shits the bucket or a device fails.

I went with the same Numato 32 channel ethernet relay that I utilized on my first build. It may be more expensive per relay but it is rock solid and I like the form factor.

Confused on relays? Refer to this section on my first build and my Standalone Power Relay wiki page.

Parts - Power supply & distribution to relay board

As said prior, this build contains only tx9s atvs that came with 12v bricks. Due to this fact, I utilized a 12v 40a power supply for the build. Some have used 5v to power the tx9s, but I wanted to provide them with the "as designed" voltage. Given that a tx9s uses about 1a @ 12v, a 40a psu gave me a safety factor of ~1.25 (ignoring fans, relay board and switches) to cover for higher current draw at startup. I never fire them all up at once anyways, I always stage them up as my internet won't tolerate such shenanigans.

On the power strip/block I used, there are a couple of extra plug receptacles and 3x 2.4a usb-a ports for power. This way I can power random 5v atvs or other accessories if necessary.

For the fusing/distribution of power, I used the same fuse blocks that I did in my prior build. They work and are reasonably priced. I utilized a total of 3 blocks for 36 fused power points, so using one each on atv, one for the relay, one for fans and one for switches the total worked out perfectly. I used 2a fuses for all besides the board, where I used 3a.

I used 8ga wire to run between the fuse blocks and psu.

Parts - Relay board to atvs

For the run from relay to atv plug is 18ga wire. The plug is standard 5.5x2.1 one designed for security cameras. I used these plugs as they allowed lower guage wire to minimize voltage drop on the run versus the 28ga or so that comes with standard barrel pigtails.

Parts - Fan and misc wiring

For the fan wires, 18ga was used. I popped off the plastic panel on front of case and mounted a terminal block. This gave me a hidden spot to have a junction for all the miscellaneous wires and to provide a clean run to the fuse blocks.

Parts - Networking

I utilized two 24 port Netis switches, as they are actually more compact than other 16 port switches. To power these, I used leftover 5.5x2.1 right angle barrel pigtails that I had leftover from my prior build.

I used cat6 flat 2ft ethernet cables to connect the switches to atvs and switch. 10ft ethernet is used to connect to my Asus GT-AC5300 router.

Layout of parts

So I opened the box from ebay that I got the Corsair case and began laying out parts. I quickly realized that the drive bays would not work in the same manner as my first build, i.e. placing fuse blocks in 3.5in bays and switches in 5.25in bays. This left me with putting the relay in the glass compartment of the case. The fuse blocks, psu and power strip on the closed back side of the case.

In stock form, the area below the motherboard is open between the two compartments. This wouldn't work, so I ordered a 12in by 12in by 1/8in chunk of plastic to mount the relay upon. I test fit thing and got things situated how I thought would work. I then drilled through the holes in the relay board and made another just outside the relay board to facilitate mounting it with 4in zip ties. With the relay mounted safely to the plastic, I set it in the case and started drilling holes so that I could mount the setup utilizing 4in zip ties.

For the fuse blocks, psu and other equipment, I just started putting parts in the back compartment of cabinet and seeing what fit where. It is as simple as using small amounts of velcro to parts and case, then seeing what fits. Nothing scientific or fancy, just be sure to give yourself enough room to run wires. Once a home is found for a part, use full size chunks of velcro.

Due to the lack of cubby holes in the case (as in case of Thor v2 for first build), there was limited space for placing switches. They ended up on the back side of motherboard compartment with ports facing to the back. The added benefit of this position was that I could have something to hide the junction / merger area of the cable runs to atvs.

Running wires

Not much to say here, so I will use pictures to show the progression.

18ga wire for the runs from beyond fuse blocks to atvs, with wires groups contained by braided sleeves. 8ga wire from psu to fuse blocks. PSU to 120v is a cut up old computer cable.

For mounting of cables to case, I used 3/4in cable tie mounts and some leftover 1/2 in versions I had from my first build. Wire and wire bundles secured with 4in zip ties.

Pictures

Motherboard compartment of case which has a glass door