Sony imposed a hardware limitation on the front ports of the PSC. They put a chip on the 5v USB power rail (a TPS2553) which controls how much current can be drawn at the port. A USB device will always be rated at 5v (per USB 2.0 spec), but it will draw a variable amount of current. For those not familiar with the fundamentals of electricity, current is the rate of flow of electrons in a circuit. If we use water flowing through a pipe as an example, the current would be how fast the water is moving through the pipe. Circuit breakers in your home work similar to how the TPS2553 works on the PSC. Most of us have tripped a circuit breaker before by overloading a circuit in our home. e.g. if you run the microwave at the same time as your hair dryer, and then your fridge's compressor turns on, the breaker will flip because there's too much current being drawn by the circuit. This is a protection mechanism as too much current can create some scary results. There's a couple differences between a circuit breaker and the TPS2553: A circuit breaker is usually rated as something like 15 amps, or 30 amps. The TPS2553 on the PSC will "trip" at 100 milliamps. The TPS2553 will not completely shut down when it "trips". It just won't supply more than the max amount of current to the circuit.

limiting chip, why doesn't my drive work? Or, conversely, why does my drive work? Ok, sorry, a bit more learning to be done. The USB spec does current in terms of unit loads. As far as I understand it (and please correct me if I'm wrong), a USB device when plugged in will draw 1 unit load, and after configuration/enumeration (a handshake between the host and device sharing metadata about the device), a limit of a max of 5 unit loads. In USB 1.1/2.0, this comes out to 100mA/unit load or a max of 500mA per port. Some devices implement this behavior, others just give unrestricted access to the host's 5v power rail. In USB 3.0+ devices on the other hand, unit loads are 150mA and devices can draw up to 6 unit loads (or rather, a max of 900mA total). So what does this mean for the PSC? Well, most (and I'd almost argue to say nearly all) USB storage devices are going to be rated at 500mA or greater. <100mA devices usually only constitute peripherals like mice, keyboards, gamepads, etc. When an electrical device tries to consume more current than is available, parts of the circuit can fail and become unstable. Going back to home electrical, these are called brownouts. A brownout in USB drives can cause data corruption or just general incompatibility. It's generally not harmful to the device itself, but it's certainly less than ideal. 100mA just isn't going to cut it for most/all USB drives. OK, drives probably need at least 500mA, up to 900mA if it's a USB 3 drive. How do we get around this with the PSC? We have a couple options to remedy this: We can find a unicorn drive that just happens to work with 100mA and won't brown out We can supply enough current to USB drive through other means We can disable the current limiter circuit for the USB ports Supplying enough current through other means The most popular version of this is probably to use a powered USB hub.

Most USB 3.0 flash drives work well with a powered USB hub, as their main problem is that they need more power that the PSC USB ports can deliver. Please be advised that mileage may vary due to a write current requirement.

The following is an (incomplete) list of compatible drives and USB sticks for the PlayStation Classic:

So with the USB drive in the computer, open Command Prompt on Windows. Type diskpart, hit enter, say yes to the prompt, wait for DISKPART> prompt and then run:

list disk - Find the disk number on the list that corresponds to your USB drive (based on size) and be sure, since this will erase a drive. Want to pick the right one.

select disk x - Where x is the number of your drive, such as 2 (from list disk list).

list disk - Now * will be shown next to the drive that we're going to erase. No going back.

clean

create partition primary

format fs=fat32 label=SONY quick

Now drive will be wiped and reformatted fat32 and named SONY. Just needs the Project Eris or Autobleem files copied to it, depending what you've installed.

PSC suports up to 2TB external HDD for storage. But the PSC does NOT support all manufacturers' hdds, so use Western Digital drives. Format as MBR/EXFat & connect via OTG with a sufficiently capable power brick. Unfortunately, GPT/NTFS formats are NOT supported by the PSC. If you buy a new drive, you'll need to format it as WD uses the GPT format, stock won't be recognized.

Once smartphones became more widespread. It allows you to use the rear microUSB port on the system as sort of a 3rd USB port. In order to do this, you need a special Y adapter that will let you plug in your USB drive as well as a power cable to power the system and the drive at the same time. BleemSync's installer is currently the only way to get this feature active, though I believe once the install is done, AutoBleem and RetroBoot will work with a correctly prepared drive. You can read more about OTG at BleemSync's release page. Out of the two options, I would probably recommend OTG if you care about aesthetics. The major con with OTG is you have to somehow get the payload installed, which you uh, need a USB drive working on the front port reliably. So you'll probably need a hub for the initial install anyway.

In my testings the SUYAMA OTG Hub is the best quality !

• OTB cables only work after installing kernel
• This is a small list of OTG cables that work. This should give you an idea on what to look for in a OTG cable

• Always insert your Wifi adapter into an OTG or externally powered USB hub
• Drivers can be placed in

  project_eris\etc\project_eris\SUP\modules
  

• Edit and include the name of the module in

  project_eris\etc\project_eris\CFG\modules_to_load 
  

  to add your module

• Firmware needs to be placed in

  project_eris\network\lib\firmware
  

Create a ssid.cfg file

First line SSID Second line password.

Example:

MicrowaveToasterSSID

MicrowavedBananasPassword

Save file in

project_eris\etc\project_eris\CFG\

Confirm if WiFi is working by loading RetroArch and checking Network Information

Using MiniTool Partition Wizard 11.

Deleted the partition and re-created it. This also allows you to format the drive to the format of your liking. Like FAT32 because or if you have BleemSync 1.0 then you can try exFAT or NTFS.

Steps:

Open MiniTool Partition Wizard 11.

Find and select your drive in the window.

Right-click and select "Delete".

Right-click again and select "Create".

Select the file system: choose your file system first(blanks out the name of the drive if you do this after naming it), name the drive "SONY" and choose 32KB for cluster size, press OK.

On the main window: Select "Apply" at the top left corner, press OK and wait for it finish successfully.

After that add all of the BleemSync/Project Eris/Autobleem files.

Prep Work

You must make sure that you boot into Project Eris and enable the Bluetooth option in the boot menu settings screen.

Ensure you connect your Bluetooth adapter AND your Project ERIS Drive to your consoles front ports.

If you have a Wifi Adapter, you can ignore the above step and plug your Bluetooth adapter into your OTG/USB HUB along with your Wifi, ensure your Wifi is configured, and copy the IP address on the Project ERIS wireless menu.

You need to make sure you have PuTTY or another program that can launch it, like WinSCP.

Instructions

Connect your Console to your PC with a USB to micro USB cable capable of data transfer, such as the one that came with the console. Open your SSH software like PuTTY, and connect to your console using the settings listed on the main Project ERIS page.

If you use OTG and Wifi, you can leave your set up as it is, and substitute the IP address for the one you noted from the Wireless menu from your console earlier. You should see the Project ERIS logo in PuTTY when connected to the console.

To customize the joystick pairing just add in a pair/unpair routine to Eris's network init bash script, this works if you where also having issues with your bluetooth controller having to be re-paired every go around.

You'll have to find the MAC of your controller and replace the one in the example with your own, copy/paste that block at the end of project_eris\etc\project_eris\FUNC\0060_network.funcs, and then add a call to your new function at the end of init_networking()

Like :

For wired adapters

udhcpc -R -n -p "/var/run/udhcpc.eth0.pid" -i eth0 &

For wireless adapters

udhcpc -R -x hostname:"${HOSTNAME}" -t 10 -n -p "/var/run/udhcpc.wlan0.pid" -i wlan0 &
}

Becomes :

For wired adapters

udhcpc -R -n -p "/var/run/udhcpc.eth0.pid" -i eth0 &

For wireless adapters

udhcpc -R -x hostname:"${HOSTNAME}" -t 10 -n -p "/var/run/udhcpc.wlan0.pid" -i wlan0 &
unpair_pair_controller
}

Enter RetroArch and hold SELECT + UP for 3 seconds. Then you will be in XINPUT mode so your controller will work like an standard xbox pad with rumble.

DON'T update the firmware on the USB adapter. If you have, just use the tool 8bitdo tool to downgrade it to the oldest firmware. You can use either the brown adapter or the grey one.

Press O + START to turn on the controller (MacOS mode)

Enable pairing on the USB Adapter

Once paired, hold SELECT + RIGHT for 3 seconds until the adapter flashes.

Enter RetroArch and hold SELECT + UP for 3 seconds. Then you will be in XINPUT mode so your controller will work like an standard xbox pad with rumble.

Luckily, the current limiter chip's documentation is widely available. If we look at pin 5 (ILIM), we can see that the resistance value on that pin determines the max amount of current allowed to flow through the 5v power rail, with a low resistance value allowing the most amount of current through. I did a video about this a while back as well as an article on the BleemSync GitHub when I was still on the project team. I found out that by shorting pin 5 to ground (or the least amount of resistance available), it effectively disables the current limiter. I've done this by soldering, but I also showed in the video you can do this by using a conductive ink pen. I basically recommend doing a short on one side between both the resistors to create the short. I have been running this solution for months and had my phone do a full charge through the system. After letting it run for a while, there was nothing to indicate that the system was being damaged in any way, so this method should be considered safe. The power rail traces for the front ports are beefy enough where it should be able to handle the increased load. that's plugged in to 100mA. This is not sufficient for USB drives. To get around this you must: Hope you hit the USB drive lottery and your drive will work without any corruption Get yourself a powered USB hub to pick up the slack Short the power limiter chip's pin 5 to disable current limiting altogether on the front ports Use any of the above, run BleemSync 1.1's installer to activate OTG support, get an OTG adapter, have a stable system that doesn't take up a front port for a USB drive.