Golfer's ellbow - lekanteto/KB-API GitHub Wiki

Dave MacLeod:

  1. Strengthen body
    1. Pull up, push up, ring excercises, front lever, flies, skin the cat
    2. High load excentrics or isometrics dayly
    3. Change protocol if it does't work
    4. Strengthen shoulders to reduce load on elbow

Training for bouldering while dealing with golfer's elbow (medial epicondylitis) requires a careful approach to avoid exacerbating the injury. Here are some strategies to help you improve from V3 to V5 bouldering while managing your condition:

1. Rest and Recovery

  • Rest: Allow adequate time for your elbow to heal. Avoid any activity that causes pain or discomfort.
  • Ice Therapy: Apply ice to the affected area for 15-20 minutes several times a day to reduce inflammation.

2. Rehabilitation Exercises

  • Stretching: Gently stretch your forearm muscles. Wrist flexor stretches can help relieve tension.
  • Strengthening: Once the acute pain subsides, start with gentle strengthening exercises for the forearm, such as:
    • Wrist curls and reverse wrist curls with light weights.
    • Squeezing a stress ball.
    • Using a Theraband for resistance exercises.

3. Modify Your Climbing Routine

  • Technique Over Strength: Focus on improving your climbing technique, which reduces the strain on your elbows. Emphasize footwork and body positioning.
  • Limit Intensity: Avoid overhanging routes and powerful moves that place a high strain on your elbows.
  • Volume Control: Reduce the number of climbing sessions per week and limit the duration to prevent overuse.

4. Cross-Training

  • Leg and Core Workouts: Strengthen your legs and core, which are crucial for bouldering efficiency and can compensate for reduced upper body strength.
  • Aerobic Exercise: Engage in low-impact aerobic activities like cycling or swimming to maintain overall fitness without stressing your elbow.

5. Use Supportive Gear

  • Elbow Brace: Wear a golfer's elbow brace or strap to reduce strain during climbing and other activities.
  • Tape: Use athletic tape to provide additional support and alleviate stress on the tendons.

6. Consult a Professional

  • Physical Therapist: A therapist can provide a personalized rehabilitation program and monitor your progress.
  • Climbing Coach: A coach can help you adjust your climbing technique and routines to avoid further injury.

7. Progression Plan

Once your golfer's elbow has significantly improved and you have built a base of strength and flexibility, you can gradually reintroduce climbing-specific training:

  1. Begin with Easy Routes: Start with V0-V2 problems, focusing on form and minimizing strain.
  2. Gradual Increase: Slowly increase the difficulty to V3 and eventually V4 problems, ensuring you don’t feel pain.
  3. Target Weaknesses: Identify and work on specific weaknesses, such as grip strength or particular types of holds.
  4. Rest Days: Incorporate sufficient rest days to prevent overuse injuries.

8. Listen to Your Body

  • Pain Monitoring: Always listen to your body. If you experience pain, stop immediately and rest.
  • Adapt Training: Adjust your training intensity based on how your elbow feels during and after climbing sessions.

By following these guidelines, you can effectively train for bouldering while managing golfer's elbow, aiming to progress safely from V3 to V5 problems.