2. Extruder Front Cover - kinematicdigit/Jabberwocky GitHub Wiki
Next, we’ll move on to assembling the Extruder Front Cover. This component houses the toolhead LED and two filament sensors, which are essential for multi-filament setups.
To start, we’ll mount the toolhead LED and filament sensor switches onto the electronics bracket. Insert the single pre-wired Neopixel LED into the Electronics Mount as shown (make sure you've printed the latest version, as of Batch 2, there is now additional glue added to protect the solder connections so the new Electronics Mount is needed). Install the two pre-wired micro switches making sure that the pins are facing the same side as the Neopixel LED.
Note
The switches are labelled as top and bottom on the wiring. Install them as the image below as TOP and BOTTOM.
Screw into place using four M2x10 SHCS
Click for wiring image details
Logo LED Installation
Optionally trim the central pins to make it easier for wire routing.
Note
The depressors on the switches must align with the latch side of the extruder (look at the image below for reference). Once installed, check with a piece of filament and listen for clicking. If you cannot hear the switches, then it is recommended to use a multi-meter to check for continuity. The tone should be instant when you touch both leads, and turns off when filament engages the switches.
Next, insert the diffuser into the Extruder Front Cover. Then, install the assembled Electronics Mount into the cover, ensuring that the wires are oriented upward, as they will be routed through the Extruder.
Next, we’ll assemble the filament cutter. Check the carrier is clear of any drooping filament and carefully remove any bits that might obstruct the insertion of the blade. Take care that you don't remove the pin that is on the tab that locks the blade in place. Begin by installing the blade—carefully press it into the blade carrier using the blade installation tool. If the blade carrier is printed on a textured plate, it is recommended to sand it lightly to ensure a smooth finish.
Next, slide the blade carrier into the cutter arm and secure it using the M2x16 BHCS (this can also be done as a last step for safety). Then, install the N52 magnet into the cutter arm, MAKING SURE ITS POLARITY OPPOSES (resists each other like a spring) that of the magnet on the extruder (this may need a small dab of super glue if it seems loose). Install the two MR63ZZ bearings into their designated slots on the extruder, as assembled in the previous step (it is easy to lose your bearings here; ensure you are aware of the assembly's orientation when setting it down to prevent loss). These bearings will engage with the filament once it is detected. After complete assembly, if the cutter does not move easily or freely, remove the M2x16 BHCS and sand the plastic blade carrier lightly until it moves freely.
Note
The blade carrier can be installed last to avoid the chances of injury. It is recommended that once you have checked the fit at this stage of the installation, you can remove the blade carrier to make the rest of the build easier. Simply remove the M2x16 BHCS screw and set that and the blade carrier aside to the end.
Next, we’ll install the filament cutter, the extruder motor and the front cover.
Click for wiring detail for cover
Carefully insert one wire at a time into the wiring channel
Start by inserting the M3x12 BHCS through the cover and lightly tightening it to hold the assembly in place (this is a good time to check the alignment of the sensor pins to the two MR63ZZ bearings using a piece of filament to engage and listen for the clicking of the micro switches). Then, align the filament cutter and insert the M3x40 BHCS; again, tighten it just enough to keep it in position.
Once aligned, position the extruder motor and secure it with the M3x45 SHCS, tightening lightly to allow for final adjustments.
Moving to the latch-side, install the extruder lever lock and secure it using an M3x35 SHCS, tightening it lightly.
Next, unscrew the tensioner and open the latch to access the final mounting point. Here, install the M3x8 BHCS and lightly tighten it. Slowly pivot the extruder motor until it makes contact with the extruder gears. To ensure proper engagement, gently rotate the exposed extruder gear on the left side—this will help you find the optimal contact point between the motor and the gears. It is recommended that a tiny bit of movement be felt on the gear to reduce wear. You will be able to confirm that it isn't too tight if you can turn the gears with the exposed plastic drive gear. It should be smooth with a small bit of clicking (backlash) between the two gears. If you can't turn it easily, then re-adjust the screw until the wheel moves smoothly.
Once satisfied with the alignment (ensuring the gears are engaged without applying excessive pressure), fully tighten the two screws securing the extruder motor in place.
Note
Recommended to add Loctite to the two motor mount screws so it doesn't come undone.
Now we can install the toolhead board onto the extruder. Start by placing the two M3x16 knurled standoffs (found in the Nighthawk kit) onto the screws protruding from the extruder motor. Then, mount the NH36 (Nighthawk 36 toolhead board) bracket and secure it using two M3x8 BHCS.
Next, align the NH36 board with the mount and fasten it in place using another two (optionally four) M3x8 BHCS.
Lastly, install the Upper Strain Relief using an M3x12 FHCS. With the extruder assembly now complete, test it by loading a piece of filament to ensure it moves through smoothly. Gently move the filament up and down to get a feel for how easily it passes through the system. You can also listen for the click of the sensor switches or use a multimeter to confirm they are engaging.
If the filament feels too tight, you can also fine-tune the filament grip using the M3x6 FHCS on the Guidler. The goal is to achieve a secure grip without excessive pressure—if the grip is too tight, you’ll notice deep indentations on the filament from the drive gear.
