Assembly - jago85/UltraPIF_Hardware GitHub Wiki

Interface Board

It is recommended to begin with the top side starting with the ICs; then the capacitors, resistors, and LEDs.

It's a good idea to check for continuity between +3V3 and GND after every IC. Because the supply voltage goes everywhere, it would be hard to find when there is a bridge.

Connector P2 is optional. You'll need it if you want to program the UltraPIF using the UART adapter. But you can also use the debug ports for programming or solder some wires to the UART lines.

Hot air is recommended for soldering the FLASH (U4) so the exposed pad will be connected properly. If you start with this IC, no other parts will be heated unnecessarily.

Pay attention that there are two different sizes for the 0.1 uF caps.

Pay attention to the position 1 markings when soldering the ICs.

The LEDs have cathode markings on the bottom side. All cathodes are connected to the GND pads.

Your actual LED may differ from mine.

Solder the parts on the bottom side when you're done with the top side.

Start with the connector P1. Be very careful. Do not use too much solder as it would be difficult or impossible to remove bridges under the connector. Do not apply too much force to the pins as you may shift them inside.

If you want to program the UltraPIF using the UART connection, you should close the BL jumper.

Adapter Board

As with the Interface board, be very careful with the connector. Do not use too much solder as it would be difficult or impossible to remove bridges under the connector. Do not apply too much force to the pins as you may shift them inside.

LED Board

It is recommended to start with the MOSFETs, then solder the resistors, and solder the LED last.

The longest pin of the LED is pin 2. Pin 1 is marked with the square pad on the PCB. The LED also has a flattened side to mark pin 1.

Your actual LED may differ from mine.

Cut off the LED pins after soldering it. You may use two of them to connect the LED board to the N64.