@zmod_help_bot

0. Uninstall KlipperMod if previously installed.
1. Reset the printer to default settings.
2. Format a USB drive to FAT/FAT16/FAT32.
3. Copy the appropriate file from the Native firmware to the USB root directory:
   • Adventurer5M-3.1.9-2.2.3-20250807-Factory.tgz for FF5M
   • Adventurer5MPro-3.1.3-2.2.3-20250107-Factory.tgz for FF5mPro версии
   • AD5X-1.1.6-1.1.0-3.0.6-20250722.tgz for AD5X
4. Power off the printer.
5. Insert the usb drive into printer usb port.
6. Power on the printer.
7. Wait for the stock firmware installation to complete.
8. Configure Wi-Fi or Lan new beaver
9. Install the latest printer updates.

1. Restore the printer to factory settings. AD5X Warning

2. Format a USB drive to FAT/FAT16/FAT32.

3. Copy the mod file to the USB root directory:

   • For FF5M: Adventurer5M-zmod-*.tgz
   • For FF5M Pro: Adventurer5MPro-zmod-*.tgz
   • For AD5X: AD5X-zmod-*.tgz

4. Power off the printer.

5. Insert the USB drive.

6. Power on the printer.

7. Wait for the mod installation to complete.

   

8. Remove the USB drive.

9. Power the printer.

10. Open the printer's IP address in the browser

11. Go to Fluidd/Mainsail → Settings → Software Update. Click Check Updates and install the latest ZMOD updates.

12. Translate the mod into your language. In the console, type LANG LANG=es

13. Activate plugin with recommendations ENABLE_PLUGIN name=recommend

14. Send Files via "Octo/Klipper" for Printing

15. The entire start code should be replaced with this:

    START_PRINT EXTRUDER_TEMP=[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] BED_TEMP=[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single]
    M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single]
    M104 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer]
    SET_PRINT_STATS_INFO TOTAL_LAYER=[total_layer_count]
    

    The end code should be this: END_PRINT

    

    Code for changing the layer to this one: SET_PRINT_STATS_INFO CURRENT_LAYER={layer_num + 1}

    

16. Enable MD5 verification

    

17. Read the recommendations

18. Read the FAQ

@Khamai

After installing the Native Firmware, the print head may not be correctly positioned against the filament receiver (the receiver shutter may not be fully closed, filament may be pushed onto the table, etc.). If you encounter this issue, you need to calibrate the print head position using the following algorithm:

1. Download the Set.XY.Offset.zip archive and unzip it to the root of a flash drive.
2. Insert the flash drive into the turned-off printer and turn it on.
3. The calibration interface will appear on the printer screen. Press Reset.
4. Use the control arrows to position the print head against the receiver so that the print head presses the shutter lever firmly, the nozzle is behind the movable shutter, and the shutter itself is flush with the front surface of the receiver.
5. Press the Set button to confirm the calibration result.
6. Remove the flash drive and reboot the printer.

Generally, you don't need to calibrate anything, but if you want to fine-tune your printer, read on:

If you have completed the initial calibrations:

Then you already have:

• Configured z-offset
• A bed mesh MESH_DATA (taken at 60 degrees) - do not delete it if you use the stock screen, as it loads it for every print
• Extruder PID calibration for 240 degrees

But these settings are quite generic; few people print at a nozzle temperature of 240 degrees and a bed temperature of 60 degrees.

Why is this needed? Imagine the extruder is an oven. If the temperature constantly "jumps," your dish (your part) might bake unevenly. PID calibration "teaches" your printer to maintain the exact temperature without fluctuations. This is critical for print quality.

Important Note Before Starting! Calibrate specifically for the conditions you print in:

• Temperature: The one you most often use for your filament (e.g., 210°C for PLA or 255°C for PETG).
• Cooling: The part cooling fan should run at the same power as during normal printing.

How to Perform the Calibration?

• Use the special command (macro) PID_TUNE_EXTRUDER

• You can enter it manually in the console or press a button in the interface if available:

• The command itself looks like this (this is an example!):

  PID_TUNE_EXTRUDER TEMPERATURE=255 COOLER=80

  What this means:

  • TEMPERATURE=255 — calibration is performed for 255°C. Set your desired temperature.
  • COOLER=80 — the part cooling fan runs at 80% power.

• After Completion:

  • The printer will automatically save the new settings.
  • Be sure to reboot the printer! This is needed to update the system data and prevent freezes.

Why is this needed? Your printer's bed, like the extruder, must accurately maintain its temperature. If it fluctuates, it can lead to first-layer adhesion issues or even warping (curling) of the part at the edges. Bed PID calibration teaches it to reach and hold the target temperature quickly and stably without overshooting.

Recommendation for AD5X

Open the printer.cfg file and set in the heater_bed section:

[heater_bed]
max_power: 0.6

This allows the bed to heat up faster and the PID will tune correctly. After changing and saving the parameter, you need to reboot the printer.

Important Note Before Starting! The same rule applies here as with the extruder: calibrate for the temperature you plan to use most often (e.g., 60°C for PLA or 110°C for ABS).

How to Perform the Calibration?

• Use the macro PID_TUNE_BED

• You can also enter it in the console or call it via a button in the interface (often located next to the extruder calibration button):

  

• The command for the bed is even simpler:

  PID_TUNE_BED TEMPERATURE=80

  What this means:

  • TEMPERATURE=80 — calibration is performed for a bed temperature of 80°C. Set your desired temperature.

• After Completion:

  • The new settings are automatically saved.
  • Don't forget to reboot the printer! This completes the process of applying the new parameters.

Why is this needed? Your bed is held by several screws. If they are tightened differently, the bed becomes tilted, and the distance between it and the nozzle becomes uneven. This causes poor adhesion in some areas, and in others, the nozzle might even scrape the model. This calibration helps perfectly level the bed by adjusting its 4 mounting screws.

How it Works:

1. The printer sequentially moves the nozzle to positions above each screw.
2. It measures the distance to the bed and shows on the screen which screw to turn and in which direction.
3. You adjust the screws according to the prompts.
4. The process repeats until the bed is level.

Configuration Parameters for BED_LEVEL_SCREWS_TUNE:

• EXTRUDER_TEMP=130 — extruder temperature. Needed so that the nozzle's thermal expansion doesn't distort the measurements. Set a temperature where the filament doesn't ooze from the nozzle.
• BED_TEMP=80 — bed temperature. The bed also expands when heated, so calibration should be done at the temperature you print at.

Before calibration, clean the nozzle, otherwise the measurements will be incorrect!

Calibration Process:

• Enter the command in the console or press the button:

  

  BED_LEVEL_SCREWS_TUNE EXTRUDER_TEMP=130 BED_TEMP=80

• Important:

  • The printer will heat the extruder and bed to the specified temperatures.
  • It will start the procedure and show you which screw and how much to adjust (e.g., "clockwise" or "counter-clockwise").
  

• After the first pass, the printer will wait for you to perform the adjustments. When all screws are adjusted, press the repeat button for the printer to check the result. Repeat until the readings are perfect.

• Completion:

  • When you finish and exit the calibration mode, the printer will NOT reset the temperatures automatically.
  • Be sure to manually set the extruder and bed temperatures to zero via the control menu!
  • The bed mesh and z-offset will become invalid. Start the leveling calibration from the stock screen.
  

Why is this needed? Even a perfectly leveled bed can have slight dips or bumps. A bed mesh (or "mesh calibration") is like a "topographic map" of your bed. The printer remembers these irregularities and will slightly move the Z-axis during printing to keep the nozzle at the perfect distance from the surface. This guarantees flawless first-layer adhesion across the entire bed area.

Why This Specific Command? The built-in tools in Fluidd and Mainsail are not suitable for our printers because they:

• Do not know how to work with the strain gauge (which is responsible for precise touch detection).
• Do not perform nozzle cleaning beforehand to remove plastic ooze that could ruin measurement accuracy.

Our macro AUTO_FULL_BED_LEVEL accounts for both these features!

Important Settings: The mesh must be built under the same conditions you print in – on a heated bed and hot extruder, as metal expands slightly with heat. A bed mesh taken at 60 degrees is drastically different from one taken at 110 degrees.

• EXTRUDER_TEMP=255 — extruder temperature. The plastic in the nozzle must be melted so it can be cleaned before measurement. Set your desired temperature.
• BED_TEMP=80 — bed temperature. Specify the one you use for printing. Set your desired temperature.
• PROFILE=auto — the profile name under which the mesh will be saved. It's better to name it by the bed temperature, e.g., 80.

Example Command:

AUTO_FULL_BED_LEVEL EXTRUDER_TEMP=255 BED_TEMP=80 PROFILE=80

In this example, we are building a mesh for printing on an 80°C bed and saving it under the name 80.

To make the printer automatically load the required mesh at the start of each print, add the following lines to the Start G-code in your slicer (OrcaSlicer):

START_PRINT EXTRUDER_TEMP=[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] BED_TEMP=[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] MESH=80
M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ; Wait for bed to heat
M104 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] ; Set nozzle temperature

What happens here:

• START_PRINT - the main start print macro
• The line START_PRINT... MESH=80 tells the printer: "Start the print and load the bed mesh named 80".
• [nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] and [bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] are variables from the slicer that will automatically substitute your set temperatures for the first layer.
• The main thing is to ensure that the MESH= parameter points to the same profile name (in our example, 80) that you used in AUTO_FULL_BED_LEVEL.

Even better, create several meshes for each temperature 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 110 and use the following start code:

START_PRINT EXTRUDER_TEMP=[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] BED_TEMP=[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] MESH=[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single]
M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ; Wait for bed to heat
M104 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] ; Set nozzle temperature

In this case, the bed mesh corresponding to the bed temperature will be loaded.

Final Procedure:

1. Build the bed mesh using the AUTO_FULL_BED_LEVEL macro for your printing temperature.
2. Add the START_PRINT command with the MESH=... parameter pointing to your profile name to the slicer's start code.
3. Now, for every print, the printer will automatically use the correct irregularity map!

Why is this needed? KAMP is a smart system that builds a bed mesh not over the entire area, but only in the zone where your models are located! This significantly speeds up print preparation, especially on large printers, while retaining all the benefits of a precise bed mesh.

How it Works:

1. Before starting a print, KAMP analyzes the location of all objects on the bed.
2. Instead of building a full grid, it measures the bed height only in the required area.
3. This saves time without sacrificing print quality.
4. The mesh becomes denser, hence more accurate.

Important Feature of the Process: When using KAMP (and full calibration too), the printer follows a smart scheme to ensure maximum accuracy:

1. The nozzle heats to printing temperature.
2. Nozzle cleaning occurs to remove oozing plastic.
3. The nozzle cools down to 120°C. This is necessary so that during measurements, no molten plastic drips from the clean nozzle, which could distort the results.
4. Bed mesh measurement takes place with a cold and clean nozzle.
5. After measurements, the nozzle heats up again to printing temperature to start printing.

When to Use KAMP? In most cases, there is no need to build a bed mesh before every print. The exception is if you use removable plates with different thicknesses (e.g., PEI sheet and glass), as they may have different heights.

1. Enabling Adaptive Calibration (KAMP)

Activate this option to make the printer use KAMP wherever possible SAVE_ZMOD_DATA USE_KAMP=1.

SAVE_ZMOD_DATA USE_KAMP=1

Configure Orca:

• Process Profile -> Other -> Custom G-code -> Exclude objects check the box
• Process Profile -> Other -> Custom G-code -> Label objects check the box

2. Enabling Calibration Before Each Print

If you want the printer to automatically build a bed mesh before starting each job (e.g., when frequently changing plates), activate this function SAVE_ZMOD_DATA PRINT_LEVELING=1.

SAVE_ZMOD_DATA PRINT_LEVELING=1

You can use a start code like this:

START_PRINT EXTRUDER_TEMP=[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] BED_TEMP=[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single]
M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single] ; Wait for bed to heat
M104 S[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] ; Set nozzle temperature

Important for stock screen operation: To initiate bed mesh leveling from the printer's stock screen, you must go to the screen menu: Settings → WiFi Icon → Network Mode → enable the Local Networks Only toggle.

3. Smart Purge Before Print

Add this setting to make the printer use the same area for nozzle cleaning where it just took the bed mesh. This saves space and time SAVE_ZMOD_DATA CLEAR=LINE_PURGE.

SAVE_ZMOD_DATA CLEAR=LINE_PURGE

To enable smart bed mesh leveling before each print, run the following command once:

SAVE_ZMOD_DATA USE_KAMP=1 PRINT_LEVELING=1 CLEAR=LINE_PURGE

Now, before each print, the printer will take a bed mesh only where there are objects to print.

What is Z-Offset? Simply put, it is the precise distance between the nozzle tip and the bed at the moment the printer considers them to have "touched." The correct Z-Offset ensures that the first layer of plastic adheres perfectly to the bed – not too low (the nozzle will scrape the bed) and not too high (the plastic won't stick). Learn more

The Most Important Rule: On our printer, Z-Offset is ONLY relevant DURING printing. The values you see on the screen or in the interface BEFORE or AFTER printing are for reference only and do not reflect the actual situation.

The stock screen is the primary tool for Z-Offset adjustment. It automatically manages the offset, and its settings are saved reliably.

How to Adjust:

1. Adjustment is possible only during printing.

2. Press the bottom right square on the touch screen.

   

3. Then press the "pencil" icon to edit the Z-Offset value.

   

4. Make changes based on the first layer quality.

Important to Know:

• For the AD5M printer, the stock screen always adds a fixed value of 0.025 mm to your setting.
• Therefore, the Z-Offset you see in the Fluidd or Mainsail interface will always be 0.025 mm MORE than the value you set on the printer screen. This is normal!

How it Works:

1. To make the printer remember the Z-Offset from the web interface and GuppyScreen, you need to activate a special setting once SAVE_ZMOD_DATA LOAD_ZOFFSET=1:

   SAVE_ZMOD_DATA LOAD_ZOFFSET=1

   This command tells the system: "Load the Z-Offset from the saved settings, don't reset it."

2. After enabling this option, you can adjust the Z-Offset directly during printing in Fluidd/Mainsail or via the adjustment panel in GuppyScreen.

   

Key Advantages:

• Automatically saved. Regardless of the adjustment method (screen or web interface), the Z-Offset value is automatically saved and automatically applied on the next print.
• No manual commands required. You do NOT need to use the Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE or Z_OFFSET_APPLY_ENDSTOP commands. Everything happens "under the hood."

• Adjust Z-Offset only during the first layer printing.
• When working with the stock screen — adjust z-offset on it.
• When working without the stock screen, first execute the command SAVE_ZMOD_DATA LOAD_ZOFFSET=1.
• The system will save everything itself. You have nothing to worry about.

What are Input Shapers and Why are They Needed? When the printer moves quickly, it can vibrate, like a car at high speed. These vibrations are imprinted on your model as "ringing" or "ghosting" on the walls. Input Shapers are smart algorithms that "predict" and suppress these vibrations, allowing for faster printing without loss of quality.

Your printer has already automatically configured the input shapers during the first calibration, and this is sufficient for most tasks. But if you want to achieve maximum quality or understand how your printer works, you can look at the graphs and choose settings manually.

What's the Problem? The graph and input shaper calculations in Klipper by default use the value square_corner_velocity = 5. But in our printer, this parameter is set to 25. This discrepancy causes the calculated maximum acceleration values on the graphs to be several times higher than they should be.

What to Do?

1. Fix the Calculations: Activate the fix for correct graph display SAVE_ZMOD_DATA FIX_SCV=1.

   SAVE_ZMOD_DATA FIX_SCV=1

2. Improve Print Quality (Recommended): Add the following line to the mod_data/user.cfg file:

   [printer]
   square_corner_velocity: 9

   • What does this do? The printer will slightly reduce speed on sharp corners. This will marginally increase print time but significantly reduce vibrations and improve corner clarity.

ZSHAPER - this macro makes the printer vibrate at different frequencies, measures the response, and builds graphs to find the ideal input shaper parameters for the X and Y axes.

Specifics for Printers with Low Memory (AD5M, AD5MPro): To avoid overloading the system, calibrate the axes separately.

• ZSHAPER — calibrates both axes (X and Y).
• ZSHAPER X=1 Y=0 — calibrates only the X axis (faster and less load).
• ZSHAPER Y=1 X=0 — calibrates only the Y axis.

Example Usage and Output:

1. Enter the command in the console to calibrate the Y axis:

   ZSHAPER Y=1 X=0

2. After the measurements are completed, you will get a report similar to this:

   // Recommended shaper is zv @ 53.2 Hz
   // Fitted shaper 'zv' frequency = 53.2 Hz (vibrations = 0.9%, smoothing ~= 0.074)
   // To avoid too much smoothing with 'zv', suggested max_accel <= 10200 mm/sec^2
   // Fitted shaper 'mzv' frequency = 54.2 Hz (vibrations = 0.0%, smoothing ~= 0.080)
   // To avoid too much smoothing with 'mzv', suggested max_accel <= 8700 mm/sec^2
   

   • The system recommends the zv shaper because it has the least smoothing.
   • But the mzv shaper completely suppresses vibrations (0.0%), although it requires slightly lower acceleration.

Where to View the Graphs? After executing ZSHAPER, graphs and CSV files will appear on the "Configuration" -> mod_data tab in your web interface (Fluidd/Mainsail).

Detailed Guide on Reading Graphs: https://github.com/Tombraider2006/klipperFB6/blob/main/accel_graph/readme.md

Option 1: Accept the Automatic Setting

If you are satisfied with everything, simply press the SAVE CONFIG & RESTART button in the web interface, and the printer will automatically write the recommended parameters.

Option 2: Manual Configuration

In the example above, the mzv shaper seemed better because it completely eliminates vibrations. To use it, you need to manually add the settings to the printer.cfg file (in the [input_shaper] section):

[input_shaper]
shaper_type_y = mzv   ; Selected shaper type for Y axis
shaper_freq_y = 54.2  ; Resonant frequency for Y axis

And Don't Forget About Acceleration! Since the selected mzv shaper allows using acceleration no more than 8700 mm/s², this value must be written to the mod_data/user.cfg file:

[printer]
max_accel: 8700 ; Maximum acceleration for X and Y axes

1. Execute SAVE_ZMOD_DATA FIX_SCV=1 for correct calculations.
2. Add square_corner_velocity: 9 to mod_data/user.cfg for better quality.
3. Start calibration for the desired axis, e.g., ZSHAPER Y=1.
4. Study the graphs and console output.
5. Either press SAVE CONFIG, or manually write your preferred shaper_type and shaper_freq to printer.cfg, and also max_accel to mod_data/user.cfg.
6. Reboot the printer.

If the mod displays Обновите ZMOD с флешки ("Update ZMOD via USB"), you must update via USB, even if recently updated.

Updating via USB preserves all data.

Simplest method: Use the ZFLASH macro. Insert the USB drive, reboot the printer, and run ZFLASH. The macro will:

• Check for the latest version.
• Download the latest release for your printer model.
• Verify checksums.
• Reboot the printer.
• Automatically install the update (keep the USB drive inserted for future updates).

After installation:

1. Go to Fluidd/Mainsail → Settings → Software Update.
2. Click Check Updates and install the latest ZMOD updates.

Version Compatibility:

• The OS version (under System → Distribution) must match the first two digits of the ZMOD version (Settings → Updates → ffm5/zmod).
• Mismatched versions cause instability.

Update Rules:

• USB required if the first or second version digit changes (e.g., 1.2.x → 1.3.x).
• Online update suffices for third/fourth digit changes (e.g., 1.2.6 → 1.2.7).

Manual USB Update:

1. Format a USB drive to FAT/FAT16/FAT32.
2. Copy the mod file to the USB root.
3. Power off the printer.
4. Insert the USB drive.
5. Power on the printer.
6. Wait for the reboot and installation.
7. Remove the USB drive.
8. Power cycle the printer.

• SKIP_ZMOD: Reboots without starting Moonraker/Fluidd.
• REMOVE_ZMOD: Fully uninstalls the mod.

Recommended method: Use the REMOVE_ZMOD macro. Use USB removal only if macros are unavailable.

Important! If you're using Klipper 13, you need to calibrate UPDATE_MCU. This will prevent the MCU and Klipper from being different versions.

USB Removal:

1. Format a USB drive to FAT/FAT16/FAT32.
2. Copy flashforge_init.sh to the USB root.
3. Power off the printer.
4. Insert the USB drive.
5. Power on the printer.
6. Wait for three reboots.
7. Remove the USB drive.

If you have the latest ZMOD version:

1. Update the stock firmware normally.
2. Reboot the printer.

If ZMOD is outdated:

1. Update ZMOD via USB first.
2. Install online updates via Fluidd.
3. Update the stock firmware.

Attention! If you're using Klipper 13, you must run UPDATE_MCU before updating the stock firmware. This will prevent situations where the MCU and Klipper are different versions.

AD5X requires zMod activation via AD5X-ENABLE-zmod.tgz from flash drive, after stock update.

To switch to a stable branch:

1. Add to mod_data/user.moonraker.conf:

   [update_manager zmod]
   channel: stable
   

2. Stable updates are released weekly.
3. For bug reports or new features, switch back to the latest release by removing the above lines.

BTC 17wXTd9BqYp1K3zCLTxVyGLEXUDjf7XNLL

Guide by @darksimpson, Alexander, @Ikaros413, @SoloMen88

Symptoms: Printer freezes on boot screen and is unreachable via LAN.

Steps:

1. Unplug the printer.
2. Prepare a 3.3V UART/USB converter (ensure jumper is set to 3.3V).

3. Open the printer’s rear panel.
4. Connect to the UART pins (RX, TX, GND — do NOT connect 3.3V).

WARNING: 5V input will damage the motherboard!

5. Connect the converter crosswise:
   • Converter RX → Printer TX
   • Converter TX → Printer RX
   • Converter GND → Printer GND

6. Identify the new COM port in your OS.

7. Open PuTTY:

   • Connection type: Serial
   • Speed: 115200
   • COM port: (e.g., COM6)

8. Power on the printer.

9. When Hit any key to stop autoboot appears, press Enter.

10. In U-Boot, run:

    setenv init /bin/sh
    boot
    

11. After Linux boots, remount the filesystem as writable:

    mount -t proc proc /proc
    mount -o remount,rw /
    

12. Fix corrupted files (e.g., delete faulty scripts):

    rm -f /etc/init.d/S01bad_script
    rm -f /opt/config/mod/.shell/S98camera
    

13. Save changes and reboot:

    sync
    reboot