Fixes and Tweaks - christianhaitian/rk2020 GitHub Wiki

!!!Attention!!! Many of these issues have been resolved in the new revision units. The new revision units do not have a reset button located near the speaker cut out on the bottom of the unit.

In order to charge the rk2020 while off, the spi has to be updated. There is a spi update available that can be downloaded. See the SPI FAQ section for more info on this.
This has been resolved in the new revision units.

As of 8/11/20, rkconsole is still working on a spi update that will hopefully address this issue for older rk2020 units. This has supposedly been addressed in the new console revisions. To determine if you have a new revision, the new revisions no longer has a reset button at the bottom of the unit located near the speaker hole.
If you're comfortable with soldering, there is a mod that can be done to the unit that involves installing a 2A charging module Amazon link.
Here's a video link created by alwaysbefun of the process being completed.
Instructions and images from Bozzy are available in the Fixes and Tweaks: Fast Charging Mod section.
This has been resolved in the new revision units.

There are posts on each direction of the dpad that seem to be too long that causes this issue. This can be corrected by carefully disassembling the unit and using a pair of small flush cutting side cutters, carefully cut them down so they are flush with the dpad. A small file may work as well, just be careful to not file the rest of the dpad itself. I don't recommend any motorized tools with a sanding bit like a rotary tool (ex. Dremel) as those tend to melt plastic due to how fast they rotate.
This has been resolved in the new revision units.

I haven't experienced this issue yet but I did a mod to my unit in hopes to prevent this occurrence. I thermal glued a 0.5mm copper shim to the cpu on the unit. It’s been stated that a 2mm copper shim should work but adds slight pressure to the battery. You can try this as this may give better heat dissipation but be careful that there isn’t much pressure added to the battery. I don't recommend thermal tape as thermal tape can unexpectedly lose it's adhesive bond and the shim may fall off and cause a short in the device. Thermal glue is permanent and a small dab is all that's needed to hold the copper shim in place and conduct heat away from the cpu.
Replacing the existing .dtb file with this one on the fat (/boot) partition on TheRA may resolve the issue as well. It seems to help in correcting battery level being reported in TheRA as well. (Note) This is not needed on TheRA 2.4 NTFS V2 or later as it comes with this newer .dtb preinstalled.
This has been resolved in the new revision units.

Yes. Just carefully dismantle the unit (remember to carefully disconnect the LCD and joystick ribbon cables before removing the motherboard), then remove the LCD from the front face clips and apply some black electrical tape along the front edge of the LCD along the ribbon connector end and the same for the opposite side. Carefully reassemble every thing, and enjoy much less backlight bleeding. For an idea on how to do this, review this youtube video on how this is done on an Odroid Go Advance which is a similar device with worse backlight bleeding. The process is very similar except this needs to be done on the front of the LCD unit instead of the back like shown in the youtube OGA video.

Replacing the existing .dtb file with this one on the fat (/boot) partition on EmuElec may help. It’s not fully accurate but has been reported to improve the accuracy.