08 ‐ Slider - chrisjameschamp/DIY-Active-Pedal-Design GitHub Wiki

Assembly

Prepping the Slider Base

Start by inserting 2 M3 Heat Set Inserts into the center-most holes of the slider base.

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Next, flip the slider base over and insert 2 M4 Nuts into the hexagonal cutouts. Make sure the nuts are fully pressed into the cutouts — they should fit snugly.

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If the nuts are loose, use caution when flipping the slider base over or placing it onto the linear actuator — they may fall out.

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Gathering Mounting Hardware

To complete the slider assembly, you'll need the following hardware:

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Assembling the Slider

Begin by attaching the slider base to the linear actuator using two M5x0.8 16mm Socket Head Screws through the recessed holes on the underside of the slider base.

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Next, attach the slider shield to the top of the slider base using two M3x0.5 10mm Flat Head Screws.

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Insert both side slider mounts. The raised center lip should face inward, and the angled sides should face the front of the pedal, as shown in the image below.

Secure each mount using:

  • 1 × M5x45mm screw in the center hole
  • 1 × M4x30mm screw in the rear hole

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Connecting the Load Cell Arm

Start by inserting the 8mm x 40mm dowel pin into side of one of the slider mounts. This may be a tight fit — a small hammer or mallet can help tap it into place gently.

Next, align the shorter end of the load cell arm between the two mounts and carefully push the dowel pin through both bearings. Some force may be required here as well — just ensure the bearings are properly aligned with the holes.

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The dowel pin should sit a few millimeters recessed on each side. Try to center it as evenly as possible.

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Now insert the remaining 2 × M4x14mm Socket Head Screws into the side mounting holes. Use the last 2 × M4 Nuts and thread them into the recessed nut slots using the screws to pull them up into position.

You don’t need to overtighten — just make sure they’re firmly seated.

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Load Cell Wiring

To prevent the load cell wire from flopping around, strengthen it by sliding it into 1/4" silicone tubing. For even more rigidity, PTFE tubing is also a good option.

Cut the tubing to match the length of the linear rail:

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Slide the silicone tubing over the load cell wire. Then, use heat shrink tubing to secure it in place — make sure it covers the base of the load cell wiring nut:

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Next, prep a 6-pin FPC/FFC PCB Converter Board. As always, cover the bottom of the PCB with Kapton tape and score the mounting hole with a blade.

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Trim the load cell wire so it's approximately 2 inches (5 cm) longer than the silicone tubing. Be sure to separate the shielding wire from the rest and cover it with its own piece of heat shrink tubing to prevent shorts.

Note: The pictures in this guide do not show the shielding covered — I later had to disassemble and redo it after encountering shorting issues.

Wire the load cell to the PCB as follows:

Pin Wire
1 Red
2 Black
3 Shield
4 Green
5 White

Now grab the ribbon cable that’s been trailing along this whole time — it’s finally ready to be used. Tape it down to the side of the linear actuator using Kapton tape.

Wipe off excess oil from the linear rail surface to help the tape stick.
If you cover the M2.5 mounting hole with tape, score it with a razor blade so the screw can still pass through later.

Route the ribbon cable behind the slider base and around the other side, beneath the slider shield.

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Feed the PCB and load cell wire through the top of the slider shield, then mount the PCB to the slider base using:

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Fold the ribbon cable (origami-style) so the contacts are facing down and seat it into the socket on the PCB.

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Secure the folded ribbon cable to the base with additional Kapton tape.


Attaching the PCB cover

Now install the slider PCB cover, which also locks the load cell wire into position.

This step can be a little fiddly: the cover must press-fit between the side mount and the slider shield, while also aligning with the load cell wire and avoiding pinching any smaller wires.

Tip: Start by pressing the cover onto the load cell wire, then apply steady pressure to guide it into the shield slot.

Use a flashlight to confirm no wires are pinched before securing.

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Secure the cover with:

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Rad! You’re almost done — just a few more steps left!