v1.3.2 6. Solar Board - alanbjohnston/CubeSatSim GitHub Wiki

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6. Solar Board

These steps are to build the CubeSatSim Solar PCB:

273672661-7b458cf2-4dc0-42d5-9a05-ababe6330763-3

Here is the Solar PCB v1.3.2:

Here is the schematic:

schematic solar

https://github.com/alanbjohnston/CubeSatSim/blob/beta-v1.3.1/hardware/beta-v1.3.2/cubesatsim-solar-b1.3.2_schematic.pdf

You will need these tools:

  • Safety glasses (to protect eyes while soldering or trimming leads)
  • Soldering iron and solder (I use lead-free solder, but leaded solder is easier to work with)
  • Needle nose pliers (to bend leads and hold parts)
  • Side cutters (to trim leads)
  • glue, such as super glue gel to attach the JST connectors to the PCB

Other tools that are helpful:

Checklist

The BOM has a sheet "By Steps" which lists the parts needed for each step in order. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Ta5UaJcinGozcheROrkfwXdGSDUZrXvQ1_nbIBdIIOY/edit?usp=sharing If you have a Google account, you can make a copy of this spreadsheet ("File" then "Make a Copy") and check off each part as you install it.

For example, here is the checklist for this step:

Video

Here is a video of this step.

Steps

Start with the blank PCB, shown here top on left with AMSAT logo, bottom on the left:

IMG_3694

The 1N5817 diodes D1 - D6 and 4.7k Ohm resistors R3 and R4 are installed vertically:

IMG_3695

First insert the 4.7k Ohm resistors R3 and R4 (color bands yellow blue red):

IMG_3705

Bend the leads on the bottom of the PCB so they are held in place:

IMG_3702

Solder one pin on each resistor then check the top of the PCB that the resistors are straight and inserted all the way:

IMG_3704

Then solder the other pin, the trim the leads:

IMG_3707

IMG_3708

Here's how the board looks:

IMG_3709

Next, solder the six diodes. The polarity of this diode is marked by a white band, which is on the right side in this photo, which matches the schematic symbol on the PCB for D1:

IMG_3700

Here is the polarity of the diodes:

IMG_3713

They are installed on the PCB top then soldered on the PCB bottom. Solder one lead on each diode then flip the board over and double check polarity, insertion, and straightness before flipping board back over and soldering the other lead:

IMG_3711

Trim the leads after soldering:

IMG_3710

On the bottom, install the 2x20 GPIO female header J1.

IMG_3716

IMG_3717

First solder only one pin on each side:

IMG_3721

Verify it is fully inserted and straight before proceeding to solder the other pins:

IMG_3723

IMG_3724

Also on the bottom, install two INA219 boards U3 and U4 and their 1x6 male pin headers:

IMG_3725

Insert the pin headers, long pins down and hold in place with blue putty while you solder them on the other side:

IMG_3726

Solder one pin on each header, then check to make sure they are fully inserted and straight:

IMG_3728

IMG_3729

Solder the remaining pins:

IMG_3731

Then, on the bottom, install the INA219 boards and hold in place and level with blue putty:

IMG_3732

Solder one pin then check for straightness:

IMG_3733

IMG_3734

Solder the remaining pins:

IMG_3735

One jumper needs to be soldered on right INA219 (marked here in red):

IMG_3741

Add a small blob of solder on the pad so that it is bridged (shorted):

IMG_3743

This completes the bottom of the PCB.

Flip the PCB to the top and install the four INA219 boards U5, U6, U7, and U8 and their 1x6 male pin headers.

IMG_3744

Insert the pin headers, the long side of the pins into the board. Hold in place with blue putty:

IMG_3745

On the bottom of the PCB, solder one pin on each, then check for straightness. Then solder the rest of the pins:

IMG_3749

On the PCB top, place the INA219 boards on the pin header and hold straight and in place with blue putty:

IMG_3750

Solder one pin on each, check for straightness, then solder the rest:

IMG_3752

Next, the jumpers need to be set. On the right side, 3 jumpers need to be bridged:

IMG_3753

IMG_3756

On the left side, one jumper needs to be bridged:

IMG_3754

IMG_3755

Next, install the JST connectors JP1, JP2, JP3, JP4, JP5, JP6, JP7, JP10, JP11, JP12, JP13, JP14, JP15, and JP17 on the top of the PCB. Some connectors click in place. If yours don't, you should add a drop of superglue gel or other adhesive to secure it to the PCB so it won't pop out when you are unplugging solar panels:

IMG_3758

Note that these connectors have a polarity. Make sure the slot in the connector faces to the outside of the PCB:

IMG_3240

Here's how the board looks with them all installed:

IMG_3759

Flip the board over and solder one pin on each one then flip back and check insertion, orientation, and straightness. Then solder the other pin:

IMG_3760

Next, install the Qwiic connector (red board) using the 1x4 pin male header J5.

273672661-7b458cf2-4dc0-42d5-9a05-ababe6330763-3

Here's the complete board:

273672661-7b458cf2-4dc0-42d5-9a05-ababe6330763-3

The two JST in the red box are for the JST jumpers to the Battery and STEM Payload boards that you will connect in the Board Stack step. Both connectors are the same - it doesn't matter which is used.

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Plug the JST cable into one of the connectors. You will plug in the other end into the STEM Payload board when you build the board stack.

If you don't have the v1.3.2.3 STEM Payload PCB with the 2.5mm jack on it, you can add a 3.5mm plug to this PCB. You will make a 3.5mm plug out of a JST wire with these parts.

See Command and Control information for the details.

The next step is Step 7. Solar Panels and Frame