Introduction

This manual serves as addon to the setup-information found on http://www.grillsportverein.de/forum/threads/wlan-thermometer-mini.250253/ and deals mainly with mounting and soldering the parts on the PCB

Picture of a fully equipped PCB as an example: Directions are given with up and down like described on the monitorscreen. That means if PCB is lying in front of you up=back and down=front.

Mounting the parts

My recommendation is to start mounting and soldering the most flat parts. So we start with the lying resitors:

• R5 - 3,3kOhm (orange-orange-black-brown-brown)
• R6 - 47kOhm (blue-violet-black-red-brown)
• R7 - 47kOhm (blue-violet-black-red-brown)
• R8 - 47kOhm (blue-violet-black-red-brown)
• R9 - 47kOhm (blau-lila-schwarz-rot-braun)
• R10 - 47kOhm (blue-violet-black-red-brown)
• R11 - 47kOhm (blue-violet-black-red-brown)
• R12 - 47kOhm (blue-violet-black-red-brown)
• R13 - 47kOhm (blue-violet-black-red-brown)

Ceramic capacitors

• C17 - 100nF (104)
• C2 - 100nF (104)
• C15 - 100nF (104)

Resistorarrays

• R17 - 4 x 1kOhm
• R18 - 4 x 1kOhm

IC-sockets, don't mount ICs yet

• MAX604CPA - DIL8
• MCP3208-CI/P - DIL16
• TLC272ACP - DIL8

Diodes

• D1 (The ring upwards as indicated on the PCB-print!) - 1N5822
• D2 (The ring upwards as indicated on the PCB-print!) - 1N5822

Electrolytic capacitors (check polarity, + is indicated on the PCB, often on the capacitor -)

• C14 - 10µF
• C16 - 10µF
• C1 - 4,7µF

Tantal capacitors (check polarity, + is indicated on the PCB, often on the capacitor a small +sign)

• C11 - 0,1µF
• C12 - 0,33µF

Beeper (to be soldered from the top)

• Beeper SMD

Transistors

• BC337-25 (flat side to the left)
• BD131-16 (coolingsurface downward)

MKS capacitors

• C3 - 100nF
• C4 - 100nF
• C5 - 100nF
• C6 - 100nF
• C7 - 100nF
• C8 - 100nF
• C9 - 100nF
• C10 - 100nF

Connectors

• Raspberry (20x2)

• Fan (2pin) "nose" down

• +5V In (2pin) "nose" down

• Servo (3pin) "nose" left

• Channel 1 (2pin) "nose" up

• Channel 2 (2pin) "nose" up

• Channel 3 (2pin) "nose" up

• Channel 4 (2pin) "nose" up

• Channel 5 (2pin) "nose" up

• Channel 6 (2pin) "nose" up

• Channel 7 (2pin) "nose" up

• Channel 8 (2pin) "nose" up

• Extension (4pin, cut off from 20pin connector)

Remaining resistors

• R4 - 22kOhm (red-red-black-red-brown)
• R2 - 10kOhm (brown-black-black-red-brown)
• R1 - 100kOhm (brown-black-black-orange-brown)
• R3 - 33kOhm (orange-orange-black-red-brown)
• R14 - 2,2kOhm (red-red-black-brown-brown)
• R16 - 17,4kOhm (brown-violet-yellow-red-brown)
• R15 - 2kOhm (red-black-black-brown-brown)

Inductivity

• L1 - 100µH

Electrolytic capacitor (check polarity, + is indicated on the PCB, often on the capacitor -)

• C13 - 680µF/16V

Shorten the displaycable (a bit longer to still be able to connect to the pins). Marking on Board fits to the Raspberry Pi. Cross TX and RX between Board and Display!

• Display cable

Only parts remaining should be 3 IC an the step-down-converter-IC. Don't mount yet!

The step-up-circuit has to be bend. Use the PCB as a template/spacer. Never bend directly at the IC-case. There must be a 1.6mm distance between case and bendboint! PCB is exactly 1.6mm thick!

Depending on the case used, you can make a matching 5V power-cable. It should not be mounted yet. The remaining cables should be shortened according needs and soldered to the connectors. Check for polarity!! With sensor-connectors usually red is connected to the point of the connector. There must be no connection between this point and the metal shielding of the sensorcable!! This is the pinout of the socket accordingly: