Option Tuning Car Battle Spec R - RetroAchievements/guides GitHub Wiki

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INTRODUCTION

The Option Tuning Car Battle series is a set of arcade style racing games, released exclusively in Japan during the late 90’s and the turn of the millennium as a recognition and celebration of the best Japanese Tuning project cars from that time, with the latest release; Option Tuning Car Battle Spec R (try saying that 5 times fast) was the last in the series that released in 2000 for the PS1. Despite being Japan Exclusive; the important parts of the game are in English, with only in-game descriptions being in Japanese, so don’t worry if you’re not fluent in that language as you can progress through the game just fine.

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With this guide, you’ll be able to find out the tricks to beating this game and master this set with minimal issues. If you’re someone who likes to speed through their games, this one will take on average of around 15 – 20 hours to master; due to the repetitive nature of the games structure. So, without further ado, let’s get into the guide.

CHAPTER 1: CHALLENGE MODE (GROUP 1)

Starting off; you’ll be give a menu with some choices. Here, you can choose your options, load and save your game and go into any of the modes… but for this guide, it’s recommended that we go to “Challenge” as we don’t have any of the cars required for the Time Trials unlocked. Upon entering Challenge Mode, you’ll be met with a choice of 4 groups of cars and all of these need to be completed fully in order to unlock every car. So it is recommended you go to Group 1 and pick the first car out of the following: EP91 (Toyota Starlet), AE86 (Toyota Sprinter Trueno), NB8C (Mazda MX-5 Miata), EK9 (Honda Civic Type-R), DC2 (Honda Integra Type-R) or the AP1 (Honda S2000)

When you’ve chosen your given car, you’ll be given the choice to change your paint between 3 colours, your transmission type (Automatic or Manual) and a 3rd option which basically translates to “Would you like to use a custom set of wheels”. This option doesn’t really matter in the long run so it’s okay to choose “No.” After confirming your choice, you’ll be given the main “Challenge Mode” menu with the following options:

Battle: Gives you a set of rival drivers to beat and earn coupons to upgrade your car.
Tuning: Upgrade your cars performance from a selection of 12 tuning companies.
Repair: Repair any cosmetic or mechanical damage you may have sustained during your races
Result: Check your current results to see how you are performing with your vehicles
Car Change: Change which vehicle you wish to use. (note: this also changes the opponents you race against as well).

It is recommended that you head into tuning with your starting amount of 50 coupons and tune the power of your chosen car. But, before you hastily rush to any Tuning Company, know that you can unlock “Full Tune” versions of cars by going to that cars specialist tuner and buying performance parts that have a red “Check!” next to them. These are the only parts that are MANDATORY for unlocking these Full Tune cars, and as tempting it is to save coupons to buy the best tires; DON’T! Tires feature no performance gain and are removed upon unlocking the Full Tune version of the car, so save your coupons for the important “Check!” upgrades. Here’s a list of the tuners for each of the Group 1 cars:

EP91: JAM
AE86: JAM
NB8C: RE-Amemiya (Top Left)
EK9: Top Fuel
DC2: Top Fuel
AP1: Power House Amuse

Once you see the pop up screen for the given “Full Tune” model, choose Yes and you’ll be able to use that version of the car in Challenge Mode. Full Tune models have better performance than their Light Tune counterparts, so be sure to unlock them as soon as you’re able to.

Once you’re done tuning, head to the Battle screen and choose your opponent. When you’re in Group 1, you’ll only have 2 normal rivals to race before facing off against a boss. The normal rivals are usually in light tune cars, but will show up later with Full Tune cars as you progress. Every race lasts for 2 laps and the AI on normal rivals is usually forgiving enough to allow for a few mistakes. Boss rivals, however, often use Full Tune or “Extra Tune” special vehicles that are much faster than most of the rivals that came before them. With solid driving, they won’t pose too much trouble for the most part. Repeat the cycle again until you’ve beaten all your rivals for that vehicle and you’ll unlock a new vehicle to use in Arcade Mode.

Now it’s unlikely you’ve “Full Tuned” your first car, but don’t worry as you can choose that car again and repeat the second set of rivals to earn more coupons. And as a bonus, any unused coupons transfer over to your other cars; allowing the player to “Full Tune” cars before they’ve even raced a rival.

Upon beating all the rivals with every vehicle in a group, you’ll unlock a bonus vehicle for use in Arcade Mode. For Group 1; this will be the MT0 Mini 1.3, based off the Japanese “Rover Mini Cooper 1.3i”. Moving through the groups increases the amount of races you have to do with each vehicle too, with Groups 2 and 3 having 8 races each and Group 4 capping out at 10 races each. The lap count remains the same and more track locations are unlocked.

CHAPTER 2: CHALLENGE MODE (GROUPS 2, 3 AND 4)

From this point on, the Challenge mode routine stays the same. Choose a car, get the parts required to unlock the “Full Tune” version, beat your rivals, repeat and profit. But as the cars get faster and sometimes worse handling, you’ll likely damage your vehicle during a race so let’s quickly run through the damage types before outlining each car and their required tuners:

Body Damaged: This is purely cosmetic damage from hitting the walls/barriers too hard. You’ll see bent aero parts and broken lights, but you won’t see any negative performance attributes because of it.
*Suspension Damaged: If you do keep crashing, you may end up getting Suspension damage, which will have a negative effect on your handling and control… though through my playthrough I never experienced this.
Engine Blown: If you end up performing what’s known as a “Money Shift”, where you downshift whilst already at high-RPM, you’ll risk blowing your engine. This won’t end your race, but it will have a severe impact on your acceleration and top speed, so if you are using Manual Transmission, beware of the risks.

Now for a quick run through of all the remaining cars and their “Full Tune” companies. Remember, you only need to buy the parts that are marked with “Check!”, which will make some of these cars much cheaper to upgrade than others:

Group 2:

SW20 (Toyota MR2 GT-S): Garage SPL
PS13 (Nissan S13 Silvia): Auto Select
RPS13 (Nissan 180SX): Veilside
S14 (Nissan Silvia/200SX S14): Top Secret
SX410 (Toyota Altezza): Power House Amuse
CN9A-IV (Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 4): Kansai Service

Group 3:

S15 (Nissan Silvia S15): JUN
CP9A-V (Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 5): Kansai Service
CP9A-VI (Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 6): Mine’s
GC8 (Subaru Impreza WRX STi): JUN
JZZ30 (Toyota Soarer): Garage SPL
JZX100 (Toyota Chaser): ESPIRIT

Group 4 :

FD3S (Mazda RX-7): RE-Amemiya (Top Left)
Z32 (Nissan 300ZX): Veilside
JZA80 (Toyota Supra RZ): Top Secret
BNR32 (Nissan Skyline GT-R R32): Auto Select
BNR33 (Nissan Skyline GT-R R33): ESPIRIT
BNR34 (Nissan Skyline GT-R R34): Mine’s

Whilst racing the rivals to unlock the rest of the vehicles for arcade mode, there will be a handful of boss rival cars that may cause some issues; these being the “TARZAN R34” and the “TARZAN SPL”. These are the two main rival boss cars that have max stats and are by far the fastest cars in the game, with the “TARZAN R34” being the hardest of the two, but primarily showing up on either the technical “Mountain” courses or the Highway courses that are raced alongside traffic.

CHAPTER 3: TIME ATTACK MODE

After you’ve upgraded every car, beaten every rival and unlocked every car in the game (Aside from the NOMU Sil14-2, which we are unaware how you unlock), it’s time to take on the time trials. These time trials aren’t too difficult and can usually be unlocked within a few attempts… but be forewarned that some of the cars used for these time trials are faster than you’re used to, so don’t be disheartened if you need a few extra runs just to get your head around some of these special cars. There are 12 trials in total, one of each layout and here’s a quick guide on how to manage each one:

“Winding: Mountain (Sil80/Nissan Sileighty)” in 1:23.780

First of the time trials is with the Sileighty on the Mountain course; known for its multitude of switchback hairpins and deceptively tight turns. Before making it to the switchbacks, a deceptive right hander requires a wide entry and early entry to avoid hitting the barrier on exit. Once past that, focus on maintaining a good line coming out of the hairpins as to conserve momentum as this is where the most time can be saved or lost depending on how they’re taken. The second to last turn, a sharp blind right hander, can and will likely throw you off; so be prepared to brake early with a wide line going in to ensure a clean run through to the final turn and across the line.

Winding: Mountain SPL (HKS Celica Drag FF) in 1:32.560

Don’t panic when seeing the word “Drag” with this car as, despite it being FWD, the car is capable of on-power oversteer to help get it through corners quicker but be careful not to overdrive the car as you will end up ploughing into the barriers if you do. This track does share a number of corners with its shorter layout but gains a few new ones to keep you on edge, including the blind right hander that now leads into a chicane and hairpin combo, as well as the final turn which is a tight 90 degree left hander that can make or break a lap depending on how it’s taken.

Winding: Lakeside (Option R-Wagon) in 1:20.980

This is a simple track to understand but requires knowledge of the cars handling to master. Going from the 2nd lap, lift off the throttle momentarily as you head through the first turn as the car will become unsettled if you try to full send it. Keep the accelerator planted until you reach the hairpin, where you’ll brake hard upon reaching the first yellow sign and turn as soon as you pass the second yellow sign, maintaining a smooth shallow line through the turn as too much steering will cause the car to spin out. Afterwards, head up the crest and turn in as you go past the signs; aiming for a tight entry. If done right, the car will break traction as it goes over the elevation and give you a much better line into the tunnel turn. From here, just throttle control through the final set of turns and you’ll complete this lap with ease.

Winding: Lakeside SPL (Mito Nakko Akira86) in 2:14.610

Longer version of Lakeside, this time with the Akira86 Levin. Despite the stats, this is slower than the Option R-Wagon you used before this... despite that, the car can spin out on you if you’re too aggressive with it, especially on the hairpins and tighter corners. That being said, getting good at controlling this car with a more aggressive driving style will help get the car through sections quicker, and any advice given for sections that appear on the shorter course apply here as well.

Highway: Looproad (MTO Seven) in 1:17.330

Yes, this game does have an unlockable Lotus/Caterham Seven and it is pretty good; especially on this Highway course. One advantage you do have with these courses is that there’s no traffic in Time Attack, which is good as it’s recommended you use the entire width of the track wherever possible for the best times. Key areas are Turn 1, which you can carry a lot of speed out of if you get it right, as with the hairpin in the second half of the track. The final corner is where it counts most of all on Lap 1, as getting a solid run out of here sets you up for Lap 2.

Highway: Looproad SPL (Option TARZAN R34) in 1:41.230

Now for a massive jump in performance with the best car in the game: The Option Tarzan R34. As soon as you drive this, you’ll understand why it gave you so much trouble in Challenge Mode. This car is very easy to drive, but takes some effort to drive fast. The first time you drive this, you WILL underdrive the Tarzan R34 and still be ahead of the target time by several seconds. However, if you push the car to what it can really do, it will reward you with incredible times and even be able to beat the target time from a standing start. Just remember to use the width of the track to your advantage, keep out of the walls and have some fun. You deserve it!

Highway: Wangan (VeilSide VLS7th) in 1:15.120

You’d be forgiven for mistaking there being a Ferrari F355 in the game, when you realize this is actually a Toyota Supra. The track is simple in layout but tricky in execution. The chicane after turn 1 is blind so you’ll be forgiven for crashing into it, the long right hander after the straight has a crest before it that can send you airborne and the other turns vary in difficulty with how you’re able to take them. The VeilSide Supra is well behaved enough to not throw you into a spin, but heavy enough to cause some issues.

Highway: Wangan SPL (A’Pex Skyline GT-R V-MAX PRO) in 1:34.320

Now here’s a challenging car to drive… The A’Pex GT-R V-MAX PRO is a handful, due to it being a drag car with most of the power going through the rear wheels. The most difficult part of this isn’t the car though… it’s the layout of the track and the render distance, as there’s one point where you’re hit with a right handed turn that goes down into a tunnel, and it will cost you time if you’re not prepared and proceed to crash as a result. Don’t be surprised if this one takes a few attempts to get under target.

Circuit: Ebisu (MTO Mini 1.3) in 1:08.170

You might be surprised when seeing a Mini Cooper in this game, but for those unfamiliar with this model; this is the Japanese version of the Rover Mini Cooper, fitted with a 1.3l Injection Engine. As for Ebisu; this is the shortest track in the game with most lap times being close to or under a minute, depending on performance. There’s not much to say here, other than keep your momentum up and your Mini out of the grass and gravel.

Circuit: Ebisu SPL (BLITZ SUPRA 753) in 55.890

Time for a performance jump as we return to Ebisu, this time going in reverse. Despite being RWD and having a lot of power, the BLITZ 753 is a well rounded car and makes light work of the Ebisu course. Despite this, the first few turns come after a run downhill, so braking early is a must in order to avoid going off track, and the uphill chicane will test your accuracy as taking an incorrect line will send you airborne and off-track.

Circuit: Option Park (TRUST GReddyALT) in 1:21.440

Second to last time trial with the TRUST GReddy Altezza is a fun one. Option Park’s normal layout is decently sized race track with a good variety of turns and straights for unleashing the true power of your machine, and the GReddy Altezza has plenty of that; maybe too much. It’s easy to overdrive the car and lock it into an unrecoverable drift that sends you towards the barriers, so go a little easier through the turns. When you come to the back straight, let off the throttle as the track turns to the right, as you’ll soon hit a kink that can (and will) catch you off-guard and send you off-track. If this happens, manage the car and aim for the next turn to save as much time as possible. This one can be tricky, but the power of the Altezza will get you to that target time.

Circuit: Option Park SPL (RE-Amemiya GReddy 8) in 1:43.280

Yes, this is an RX-7 you’re using for the final time attack, and it has seen things you cannot comprehend. The track itself has been extended a bit with a new section of track, but it’s not much for the GReddy 8 to worry about as it’s significantly slower than the Altezza you drove previously. As long as you keep it on the black top and maintain a solid pace, the time can be achieved with minimal issues.

Congratulations, you’ve completed the Option Tuning Car Battle Spec R set. The game itself is a hidden gem in the arcade racing game genre and a love letter to Japan’s tuning scene that is still going strong to this day; albeit a bit more underground compared to what it once was. Perhaps in the future, we will see sets for the previous two games, though they will require some English translations in order to be playable for a wider audience. Hope this guide was of use to you all and good luck with future achievement hunting.

CREDITS

Achievement Set Developer: RyCuLe

RA-Guide Creator: Infernothefox