roadbike - OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki GitHub Wiki
Converting a Road-bike
Please ride very carefully!
I did not find good examples of converting a Road-bike to an e-bike but still keeping the road bike handlebar. But it is possible as I describe below. None of the e-bike kits are designed for bikes with a road-bike handlebar. Using a mid-motor kit with Torque-Sensing Pedal Assist and without the Throttle, one does not need to convert the brakes.
Below were the choices I ordered from EcoCycles
- TSDZ2 Motor Core: 48/52v
- Corrected 170mm Cranks (Even Q Factor)
- Chainring Assembly: 52T - 55mm Chainline
- Pre-Installed Gear: Stock Plastic
- Internal Temperature Sensor and Cooling Modification
- Wiring Harness: 1 x 1T1 Wire Harness - Motor to Display Only (No Throttle or E-Brakes)
- Display: 860C Display for TSDZ2 with Open Source Firmware
- E-Brakes: None
- Speed Sensor without Integrated Lighting Output
- Battery Connector: XT90 /Anderson
- 'Battery Bob' 1 x Bottle Bob
Battery 52 V x 13Ah (bought separately with Anderson connector). Please check the connection type (Anderson/ XT 60 or XT90) for both battery and kit to match. In my case of the TSDZ2 it came with the Anderson and XT90 connector, while the battery came with the Anderson connector.
Chainring
If your bike already has a 52T chainring, one does not need to order another one. I mounted both a 36 teeth chainring and the 52 teeth chainring. However since the chainrings are moved outwards, the front derailleur does not work anymore. There are 2 ways to handle it. Manually change the gear with your hand or feet, which I did for ~ 1000 miles.
Then I did the modifications as shown in the picture. I made a modification so that the front derailleur is mounted more outwards. Please see the additional screws at the red square. This is the amount needed. It works fine now and I am very glad.
Brake cable
The brake cables had enough space between the motor and the frame as shown. However there was not enough space to keep the screws for the derailleur cable.
Handlebar
In order to mount the 860C onto the Roadbike handlebar, I bought for $20 a handlebar extender. The diameter for the bike handle is larger than the so-called selector.
Internal Temperature Sensor and Cooling Modification
I am glad that I ordered the temperature sensor as I need to climb some hills. The motor gets hot! In the graph below, one can see what happens. The max power was set to 700 W. The graph shows the motor power when riding. Please notice how the power does not stay at 700 W. Please see how the power slowly decreases in the region "climbing". Here the motor is getting hot and the power is reduced to avoid over-heating. Climbing up the hill, one needs to assist the motor! Therfore having plenty of gears is useful. After the climbing region, the power went to zero as I was cycling downhill. Here the motor has a chance to cool down, and the motor runs again with full power until it heats up again. The motor has a torque sensor, but what really determines the power is the motor temperature! Please get a temperature sensor!
I recently added cooling fins. It helps when riding up the hill. Before I installed these fins, the motor was heating to ~ 72 deg C and the motor powered down to ~ 300 Watt as shown above. I will study further, how much it enables one to use higher power when hill climbing. It cost ~ $20 and ~ 10 minutes to install.
I used around 60 of 30mmx8mmx8mm Heat Sinks.
Riding
I ride 13 miles to work and it takes 50 minutes. Without the e-bike kit, it would take ~ 70 minutes. I need to recharge the battery after each ride, as only ~ 30% remains. However, my ride includes hills. I much enjoy the ride. I recently also changed from 32c to 35c tires and installed mudguards. Riding an e-bike with road tires is not a good idea.
Please ride carefully! Please mind others