Tutorial BETA - OpenSourceEBike/TSDZ2_wiki GitHub Wiki
Written by Tomtom50
There are only two hardware versions of the TSDZ2 motor controller, a version with a 6-pin connector to the display with no throttle and an 8-pin connector version where the throttle can be connected to the display. Voltage (36 V, 48 V, 52 V) does not change the hardware, instead the firmware is different and usually locked to different voltages. Stock firmware can be changed to open source firmware so as to unlock and setup different voltages.
There are two TSDZ2 motors, one spins 4000 RPM no-load at 36 V, the other spins 4000 RPM no-load at 48 V. If you buy a 52 V system you are getting the 48 V motor, and it will spin 52/48 x 4000 = 4333 RPM at 52 V. The brushless DC motors on ebikes are all like this. As they spin faster they produce 'backwards emf' and the backwards emf automatically limits how much current the motor draws from the controller. At a certain RPM the motor makes so much back emf it spins but makes no torque, this is the no-load RPM. This is why your TSDZ2 gives less assist as your pedal cadence rises to 80 RPM or so. There are ways to get around this but that is beyond the scope of this document.
- If you have a 36 V system and you flash to 48 V or 52 V it will run. The motor will spin faster. This can be good if you want assist at a higher pedal cadence. Eco-ebikes sells systems set up this way, they call it overdrive. You can make a 36 V system work this way by flashing the firmware to 48 V/52 V and using a 48 V/52 V battery.
- If you have a 48 V/52 V system and you flash to 36 V it will run. The motor spins slower. This can be good if you have a slow pedal cadence, although it does not get discussed much.
My experience is that the system does not feel that much different, but the open source firmware gives far more configuration options, and the KT-LCD3 displays far more information. The biggest difference in terms of assist is assists level. With the open source firmware I can set assist lower than stock level 1 and higher than stock level 4. Combined with up to 9 assist levels you have a lot more control over assist. The open source firmware is developed and modified by volunteers. I think it is very smooth for a volunteer effort, but you get no guarantee that it won't have bugs or omissions. Since it does not have a formal testing program having your brakes connected is something to consider. I did not bother to connect the brakes when I used the stock firmware, with the torque sensor there was no need for the way I ride. But I connected the brakes for the open source and I'm glad I did. With the open source firmware sometimes when I am at a stop with a foot on a pedal it can give little lurches. This never happened with stock firmware (yes, I have assist without pedal rotation disabled). I personally want to be able to kill the motor by grabbing the brake in case there is a glitch in the firmware programming. Going to open source means you are not using the system the way Tongsheng recommends. You take on risk that the motor might misbehave, you take on risk you might damage the hardware.
This document is not primarily about the mechanical side, but I will cover a couple main points since I am aiming at people who do not know a lot about the system and may not yet have bought a TSDZ2. I am a mechanical engineer, and in my opinion the TSDZ2 is well-engineered and manufactured, especially considering its price. But compromises were necessarily made.
Mid-drive kits are designed to fit typical bike frame, which has a bottom bracket that carries the crankset axle. 68mm bottom brackets are most common and typical of road bikes. 73mm is also common and shows up more on mountain bikes. Chainline is the distance of the chainwheel to the center of the bike frame, Chainline varies, 45mm is common on road bikes, 50mm on many mountain bikes. Ideally the chainline is right in the center of the rear cluster, so the chain doesn't take too much of an angle as you change gears with the rear derailleur. This becomes more critical with more rear cogs, because as cogs were added the clusters got wider, increasing the angle, and the cogs and chain got smaller and less robust. So a chainline that works OK with a 7-speed rear cluster might cause problems with 10 cogs. There are a lot of hits if you search chainline in https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788 Mid-drive kits have gears that fit between the right crank and the bottom bracket that transmit the motor power, and those gears need thickness to be strong, so it is tough to keep chainline small. Larger chainlines cause worst misalignment in first gear. If first gear is important because you climb a lot of hills you might be combining a lot of heavy use with a chain that is pretty badly aligned. The TSDZ2 manages a 50mm chainline (not great, not bad), but compromises were made to get there: • The back of the gear shroud is dished because most frames have space and the dish reduces chainline. But some frames (carbon, mountain bike frames where the rear stays splay quickly aft of the bottom bracket) interfere. Using a spacer at the bottom bracket increases chainline. • The standard 42 tooth TSDZ2 chainring is dished to reduce chainline. This is effective and a good solution, but it has limitations: o It limits you to a single chainwheel (no front derailleur). You can mount two chainwheels, but the chainline is worse on the inner and worse still on the outer chainring. Fortunately an ebike generally doesn't need such a wide gear range. I live with a lot of hills and a 11T-36T rear cluster has worked out really well. o A chain ring smaller than 42T can't be dished, the gear case would interfere. This can be a problem for mountain bikers who need a really low range. The TSDZ2 reacts torque by clamping the rear stays aft of the bottom bracket. This is often not possible with bikes that have a rear suspension, various people have come up with various solutions that require some fabrication. The clamp also can block rear derailleur cable routing, I had to grind clearance to keep the derailleur cable free. There are a lot posts about the plastic motor drive gear, which fails for some people and not for others. A bronze gear is available which is stronger but increases noise. My belief is that the plastic gear is fine if you take care to avoid a few practices that especially load the gear: • Avoid high-assist startups in a high gear. Motor torque is highest at low rpm, and a torque that is OK at speed can damage a gear at low rpm. Develop a habit of shifting to a low gear when coming to a stop so you are in low gear when you next take off. If you forget reduce assist for launch. • 500W is definitely easier on the system than 750W. The open source firmware lets you change power really easily.
Eyebyesickle sells from eco-ebikes.com, and at that website there is good instructions about how to: 1. Make a cable to connect your computer to the TSDZ2 motor 2. How to use the STM V-Link 2 and software on your computer 3. How to flash stock firmware 4. Stock firmware files. https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/tsdz2programmingfromscratch
The instructions tell you how to edit voltage levels to adapt to a different battery voltage, but that doesn't always work (it didn't for me). What worked for me was replacing the entire firmware with a stock version for a different voltage. He made a video to help to flash the entire firmware https://www.eco-ebike.com/pages/videos FIXING FAULTY 52V TSDZ2 PROGRAMMING FROM OTHER DISTRIBUTORS He uses an STM brand STM V-Link 2 USB adapter. I bought that type because it was in the instructional. Its voltage output is 3.3V where the cheap generic units source 5V. Both work, but if you plan to flash the KT-LCD3 display the 3.3V means the display is very very dim, you can barely see it.
User Jbalat has great videos on youtube. You can see every step when using the STM software.
Part 1
https://youtu.be/nj8GxKHut3o
Part 2
https://youtu.be/bxEHDFCaKH8
Part 3
https://youtu.be/zChf_2K8rW8
Part 4
https://youtu.be/0nXtaJniZQc
Part 5
https://youtu.be/IrWn6e8bIuQ
For installing the open source software the biggest hardware impact will be whether you have 6-pin (no throttle) or 8-pin:
- They have different motor connectors so the stock cable from the display to the motor is different, and the cable you need to make is also different.
- Adding a temperature sensor uses the throttle connection
Also see https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Flash-the-firmware-on-TSDZ2
5. Cable for flashing KT-LCD3 & JST-XH-4-pin connectors https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-flash-the-Flexible-OpenSource-firmware-on-KT-LCD3
jbalat in his video found he had to swap rx and tx to make his cable work. Mine worked straight away but I have seen that RX and TX assignments can vary with the generic STM adapters.
The KT-LCD3 is programmed by connecting to four empty (marked J7) holes on the board. Access to the holes on the KT-LCD3 PCB requires opening the case. If you make no modification you will need to open the case every time you want to update. I recommend connectorizing the display with a JST-XH 4-pin connector soldered to the back of the circuit board. (JST XH is the connector used for RC lithium battery balancer connections, the pins fit perfectly on the PC board). The JDT-XH connector solders in and fits nicely after a clearance hole is cut in the back of the KT-LCD3 case. Seal with hot glue or silicone. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&p=1434902%23p1434902#p1434902 6. Cable for connecting KT-LCD3 to TSDZ2 motor (and throttle and brake sensors). I did 8-pin, both 6-pin and 8-pin are covered in https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Wire-KT-LCD3-to-TSDZ2 The github link involves buying the connector + cable that connects to the KSDZ2 motor and splicing to the KT-LCD3 cable brake and throttle connections aren't covered in detail. I recommend starting with a molded cable that has waterproof connectors for KT-LCD3, throttle, and brakes and splicing to the motor + cable with a single splice. That approach directly accepts the KT-LCD3 green 5-pin connector (see above, some KT-LCD3 are sold that don't have the waterproof connector), and waterproof connections for brakes and throttle are ready for use. https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&p=1430679#p1430679 Topbikekit sells the 1 in 4 cable used, they also sell throttles and brake levers with matching molded connectors: http://www.topbikekit.com/wuxing-brake-with-2pins-waterproof-connector-p-543.html http://www.topbikekit.com/2pcs-ebike-hydraulic-brake-sensor-for-power-cut-off-with-2pins-junlei-waterproof-connector-p-697.html http://www.topbikekit.com/wuxing-108x-thumb-throttle-with-3pins-waterproof-connector-for-ebike-p-670.html http://www.topbikekit.com/wuxing-130x-thumb-throttle-with-3pins-waterproof-connector-p-542.html FLASHING THE KT-LCD3: The procedure is at https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-flash-the-Flexible-OpenSource-firmware-on-KT-LCD3 The procedure uses jbalat's TSDZ2 OPENSOURCE FIRMWARE | PART 2 video which shows all steps, but watch closely! I had to pause and rewind a few times to catch it all. Some main points: • 5V to J7 on KT-LCD3 (STM brand V-Link 2 sources only 3.3V. It works but you can barely see display) . Disconnect battery. • Settings for configuring the KT-LCD3 are (CONFIGURE menu) o Hardware: ST-LINK o Port: USB o Programming mode: SWIM o Device: STM8S105x6 • Erase the original firmware, which is locked. After you clear the firmware the KT-LCD3 is completely unprogrammed o Read all tabs (will say device is locked) o Select Option byte tab o Read Out Protection Off o Flash to current tab • Flash Open Source Firmware o Unplug and re-plug ST-Link (Screen will be blank) o Read all tabs o Select Program Memory Tab o File\open the KT-LCD3 firmware hex file o Program All Tabs o Unplug and re-plug ST-Link twice READ AND SAVE THE EXISTING TSDZ2 MOTOR FIRMWARE The procedure is at https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Flash-the-firmware-on-TSDZ2 jbalat's TSDZ2 OPENSOURCE FIRMWARE | PART 3 video. Some main points: • Battery disconnected • You can do this step with the original LCD display connected but not powered up. The ST-Link gives enough power to flash the motor. • You will first read the existing firmware. This ensures you have a working connection. Eco-ebike.com also has good instructions to get the connection up and running. • Save the existing firmware so you have a backup in case you want to go back to stock. • Settings for configuring the KT-LCD3 are in the CONFIGURE menu o Hardware: ST-LINK o Port: USB o Programming mode: SWIM o Device: STM8S105x4 (per jbalat video this is the only time to use the X4 device. Flashing Opensource firmware uses X6 same s KT-LCD3) FLASH THE TSDZ2 MOTOR OPEN SOURCE FIRMWARE The procedure is at https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Flash-the-firmware-on-TSDZ2 jbalat's TSDZ2 OPENSOURCE FIRMWARE | PART 4 video. Some main points: • Battery disconnected • Connect the flashed KT-LCD3 to the motor • Use the same ST-Link connection • Settings for configuring the KT-LCD3 are in the CONFIGURE menu o Hardware: ST-LINK o Port: USB o Programming mode: SWIM o Device: STM8S105x6. • Flash Firmware o Unplug and re-plug ST-Link (Screen will be blank) o Read all tabs o Select Program Memory Tab o File\open the TSDZ2 firmware hex file o Program All Tabs CONFIGURE THE SYSTEM The KT-LCD3 is used to configure the system. The procedure is at https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Usage-and-configuration-of-firmware-version-0.17.x jbalat's TSDZ2 OPENSOURCE FIRMWARE | PART 5 video. • Motor maximum power screen o Access by simultaneously pressing ON/OFF and UP buttons o UP and DOWN buttons increase/decrease the value o Exit by long pressing the ON/OFF button. • Configuration Menu o Access by long pressing UP and DOWN buttons. o On/off advances menus o UP or DOWN button enters menu o On/off advances sub-menus o UP or DOWN button changes values o Exit menu by long pressing the ON/OFF button o Exit to main screen by long pressing the ON/OFF button once again The table below is from the github site for v 0.17. I thin it is nice to have a log of the default settings and what you pout in (Setting column). I added some comments of my own. 0: General Setup Submenu number Configuration name Default value Setting Description 0 Unit Metric Set (0) for metric units (km/h and kilometers) or (1) for imperial units (mph and miles) 1 Maximum wheel speed 50 Enter your speed limit (by law) to run legal on public roads. The motor will fade out from -0.5 km/h to +2,0 km/h. Tip: Europe has generally a speed limit of 25 km/h for E-Bikes. 2 Wheel circumference 2050 Enter your wheel circumference so that speed and distance is correctly calculated.
Tip: Search on Google how to measure wheel circumference. But for a quick setup with ball park values use: 26 wheel = 2050; 27 wheel = 2150; 27.5 wheel =2215; 28 wheel = 2250; 29 wheel = 2300 1: Battery Submenu number Configuration name Default value Setting Description 0 Maximum current from battery 16 ampere Set maximum allowable current to be pulled from the battery. This value is limited internally by the firmware to the safe value of 18 ampere. 1 Battery low-cut-off voltage 39 volt The controller will reduce power to stay over this limit! Calculate the limit by multiplying amount of cells in series with the safe cut-off-voltage per cell, which is usually between 2.8 - 3.0 volts. Example: 39.0 volts for: 13 cells in series * 3.0 volts = 39.0 volts. 2 Number of cells in series 13 Set this value so the battery state indicator works properly. This value can be any integer from 7 to 14
Example values: 7 for 24 V battery; 10 for 36 V battery; 13 for 48 V battery; 14 for 52 V battery. 3 Battery internal resistance 130 milliohms Set this value so the battery state indicator does not display a lower state of charge when pulling a lot of power from battery and the voltage sags.
Explanation: If you set the value to 0, you will see the battery state indicator fluctuating whenever the motor draws current from the battery. This is due to the internal resistance in the battery. The fluctuation will disappear and be filtered out with a correct value.
How to calculate the battery pack resistance: 1. Limit the battery current to a known value, e.g. 10 amps 2. Read the voltage drop when motor is pulling the 10 amps 3. Calculate the resistance value
Example for 10 amps current, R = U / I, R = 1.2 volts drop / 10 amps, R = 0.120 = 120 milliohms. I found 300 was a good setting for my 52V 12.8Ah battery. 4 Battery voltage (SOC) - Measured and continuously updated battery voltage State Of Charge (SOC). This value is filtered using the battery pack resistance.
Tip: Here you can evaluate and test how the set internal resistance of the battery affects the voltage reading. 2: Battery Capacity Setup Submenu number Configuration name Default value Setting Description 0 Enable and set State of Charge function 0 Set (1) to enable function. It will display watt-hours consumed and percentage of charge remaining, i.e., display percentage value from 100 % to 0 %.
Set (2) to enable function. It will display watt-hours consumed and percentage of charge consumed, i.e., display percentage value from 0 % to 100 %.
Set (0) to disable the function. 1 Threshold voltage to reset watt-hour meter 54.2 volt When powering on the display this value is compared to the battery voltage. If it is lower, the battery is expected to be fully charged and the watt-hour meter is reset.
Tip: To find a suitable value, fully charge the battery and measure the voltage on the KT-LCD3, use a slightly lower value for the threshold voltage.
Example: my 48 V battery charges up to 54.6 volts, so I set the threshold to 54.2 volts. 2 Total watt-hours of battery 0 Set the total capacity in watt-hours your battery has.
Tip: fully charge the battery and then discharge it completely and use the measured value to input here.
Tip: the capacities stated from suppliers are often too high, expect a value of around 80 % - 90 % of stated value. I use 350 Wh for my 386 Wh battery.
Tip: roughly calculate the capacity by multiplying the nominal voltage with the nominal ampere hours. Example: a 48 volt, 14.5 Ah battery has a nominal watt-hour capacity of 696 Wh. 3 Consumed watt-hours - This value represents consumed watt-hours since last reset. It is reset automatically when you power on the LCD and the battery is fully charged, i.e., above the set threshold voltage. 3: Assist Levels Submenu number Configuration name Default value Setting Description 0 Number of assist levels 5 default Select the desired number of assist levels from a minimum of 1 to a maximum of 9. 1 Assist level 1 multiplier 0.5 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.7 0.9 1.2 1.5 The value with which the human pedaling power is multiplied with. (default 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.5)
Example: 0.5 * 200 W (human power) = 100 W assist power. This results in 300 W total power.
I found the stock values gave crazy high assist,, o.5 was stronger than level 4 (turbo) in the stock firmware.
Also the human power it tells me I am putting is flattering but way high. It didn't matter in practice, I just set low multipliers. For me 0.1 is less assist that stock Eco mode, and 1.5 is more assist than Turbo 2 Assist level X multiplier 0.5 inc The desired multiplier for assist level X. 4: Startup BOOST function Submenu number Configuration name Default value Setting Description 0 BOOST feature 0 Set (1) to enable or (0) to disable. I get occasional motor lurches when I'm at a stop with my foot on a pedal even though this is disabled. 1 On startup only / everytime 1 Set (1) to enable BOOST feature every time pedal cadence or torque sensor value are zero. Set (0) to enable BOOST feature only when startup and bicycle wheel speed is equal to zero; 2 Limit BOOST power to max battery power 0 Set (1) to enable BOOST power limit to the maximum battery power value. Set (0) to disable. 3 BOOST time 2.0 seconds Set time limit of BOOST. 4 Fade out BOOST 3.5 seconds Set time limit to transition of power from BOOST to regular power. 5 Assist level 1 BOOST multiplier 4 Set the BOOST multipler corresponding to assist level 1.
Tip: See assist levels for more information about multipliers. 6 Assist level X BOOST multiplier - Set the BOOST multipler corresponding to assist level X.
Tip: See assist levels for more information about multipliers. 5: Motor Temperature Protection Submenu number Configuration name Default value Setting Description 0 Motor temperature protection 0 Set (1) to enable the motor temperature control or set (0) to disable.
NOTE: if you do not have the motor temperature sensor installed, you should disable this option and ignore the immediate configurations below. 1 Minimum temperature 75 °C Set the minimum motor temperature at which the motor current will start to be limited. 2 Maximum temperature 85 °C Set the maximum motor temperature at which the motor current will be completely blocked, i.e., motor shutoff. 6: Display Submenu number Configuration name Default value Setting Description 0 LCD brightness when backlight is off 5 Percentage of brightness when backlight is turned off, e.g., 5 % 1 LCD brightness when backlight is on 80 Percentage of brightness when backlight is turned on, e.g., 80 % 2 LCD auto power off 15 Automatic power off after set amount of minutes. 3 Reset to factory defaults 0 1. 2. Increase the value to 10 3. The display will turn off 4. Turn it on again 5. Factory default settings will be restored 7: Offroad Mode Submenu number Configuration name Default value Setting Description 0 Feature toggle 0 Select (1) to enable or (0) to disable. 1 Active on system startup 0 Determines whether offroad mode should be active on system startup. Select (1) to enable or select (0) to disable. 2 Speed limit 25 km/h This speed limit is used when offroad mode is not active. Configure your speed which is legal for using on public roads. The motor will fade out power from -0.5 km/h to +2,0 km/h. 3 Limit power 0 Determines whether power should be limited when offroad mode is not active. Select (1) to enable or (0) to disable. 4 Power limit 250 W The power limit in watts. For most countries in Europe the legal power limit is 250 W. 8: Various Submenu number Configuration name Default value Setting Description 0 Motor voltage type 0 Depending on type of motor, select appropriate value so that FOC calculations are correctly executed. The voltage of the battery does not matter, this value should always be set depending on type of motor.
0 for 48 V brushless motor (TSDZ2 52 V version has a 48 V brushless motor). • 1 for 36 V brushless motor. • 2 for experimental high cadence mode (only available in version 0.14.3 and up). Maybe not good for the motor, use at your own risk. Probably only suitable for 36 V motors. 1 Motor assistance startup without pedal rotation 0 Select (1) to enable or select (0) to disable. Recommended to keep at disabled (0) if you do not have brake sensors installed. 2 Set odometer 0 Set the odometer to preferred value. Increase the value by pressing UP button or press and hold to have the value increment automatically. Decrease the value by pressing the DOWN button or press and hold to have the value decrement automatically. 9: Advanced Technical Data Submenu number Configuration name Description 0 ADC throttle See the current value 1 Throttle See the current value 2 ADC pedal torque sensor See the current value 3 Pedal torque sensor See the current value 4 Pedal cadence See the current value 5 Pedal human power See the current value 6 PWM duty cycle See the current value 7 Motor speed in ERPs See the current value 8 FOC angle See the current value. This value must be multiplied by 1.4 to get angle value in degrees. Other links https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=93818&p=1435526#p1435539 https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=93818&p=1435526#p1435634 https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=93818&p=1435526#p1435736
Main screen https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Usage-and-configuration-of-firmware-version-0.17.x I added screenshots to the github info to make this easier to understand o Assist level: assist level sets the motor power as a factor of the power that rider is doing on the pedals. For instance, if current assist level is 3 and if this level is configured as a factor of 2.0, when rider is doing on the pedals a power of 100 watts, the motor power used will then be 200 watts.
The assist level is changed by pressing UP and DOWN buttons. o Ebike wheel speed: the value of wheel speed in kmh or mph.
o Motor power: power used by the motor (in watts) that is being draw from the battery.
o Battery state of charge: Battery state of charge based on battery voltage. There are 6 different levels. When battery is near empty, the battery symbol will be empty and blinking and the motor power will be reduced up to battery being totally empty.
The battery voltage used to calculate the state of charge has in consideration the battery pack resistance to avoid floating when power is being draw from the battery (the battery pack resistance value is set on configurations menu). o Lights: enabled/disable with a long press of UP button (LCD back light will also be change, depending on the configurations) and the motor controller will enable/disable the ebike lights.
o Brake: Brake symbol is enabled when user press the ebike brakes (good to check that sensor brakes are working).
o Time Measurement: Time measurement functions. Switch between TM or TTM to get measured time either from trip or user last reset.
o Walk assist: enabled/disable with a long press of DOWN button. Although it is implemented on LCD, it is not yet implemented on the motor controller.
o Offroad mode: if you have enabled the offroad mode (see configuration section below) this can be activated with the ON/OFF and UP button combination and deactivated with the ON/OFF and DOWN button combination. When active, the assist symbol above the assist level will start blinking.
Offroad mode is disabled and inactive by default. We do not recommend you to activate offroad mode on public roads. In many countries offroad mode may only be used on private property. o Motor temperature / battery state of charge in percentage: this field can show either the motor temperature (when the sensor is installed), the battery state in percentage or none (you can switch what is shown by pressing POWER and UP buttons simultaneously).
Motor temperature: motor temperature in degrees Celsius. When the power power is being limited due to over temperature, this field will blink (configure the temperature limits on configurations menu). Battery state of charge in percentage: this percentage value is based on the accumulated battery power draw from your battery pack (set options on configurations menu). o Odometer field: this field can show a few variables that are logic grouped in sub fields. You can change between fields by pressing ON/OFF button and sub fields by quick pressing UP button followed a long press UP button (you will see temporary the field and sub field number blinking on wheel speed field).
1. Distance 1.0 Trip distance: can be reset by quickly pressing DOWN button followed by a long press DOWN button (you will see trip distance value blinking if you keep pressed DOWN button and after 3 seconds the value will reset). 1.1 Distance since power on this value is automatically reset at power on. You can also reset by quick pressing DOWN button followed a long press DOWN button (you will see trip distance value blinking if you keep pressed DOWN button and after 3 seconds the value will reset). 1.2 Odometer: can be set to a specific value on the configurations menu. 2. Battery State of Charge (not shown if function is disabled in configuration menu) 2.0 State of charge in percentage 2.1 Consumed watt-hours 3. Battery State 3.0 Voltage: Voltage of battery. 3.1 Current: instantaneous current drawn from battery. 4. Pedals 4.0 Rider pedal power: in watts. 4.1 Pedal cadence: in revolutions per minute. 4.2 Pedal torque: in newton meter. 5. Motor Temperature (not shown if function is disabled in configuration menu) 5.0 Motor temperature: Temperature of motor. 6. Time Measurement 6.0 Time Measurement: Time measured since display is powered on. 6.1 Total Time Measurement: Total time measured since last reset.